Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Done Right!

I had an absolutely beautiful weekend, in spite of the overcast weather. On Saturday, the annual Santa Cruz Longboard Union Memorial Day Invitational was underway, and I got to see some awesome longboarding! A few of my friends were in the competition and it was great to witness them compete against a few pro's. Below is the scene... gray skies, but colorful sea's:



I was supposed to go to a BBQ that night, but ended up sleeping for about 12 hours. The rest must have been badly needed. I tried to surf Sunday morning at around 5am, but ended up going back home to get yet another hour of sleep. Before I left, I was able to get a pre-dawn Capitola pier:



Later, in the afternoon, I went to a BBQ for the Longboard Union people (one day to which I hope to be a part of). The realization of my good fortune to be among really wonderful people and great surfers had hit. All my progress as a person and as a surfer has been because of my decisions to move to a surf town and immerse myself in it. I couldn't be any luckier.

Yesterday I surfed in the early morning with some of the crew and it was just wonderful. A beautiful SW swell was coming in and the waves were so fun. I went to breakfast with Drew, Todd, and Brenda and had wonderful conversation about American and Dutch culture. For lunch I met up with Alison, after a 7 month period of not seeing her. It was good to reconnect and we are going to try and get her back into the water on Wednesday. Her and I had lunch and headed to the restaurant that Ryan works at. He kept fillin' our glasses of beer (and we had a margarita before hand). I was pretty much intoxicated from that point on (I think that was around 2:30 or 3pm) and had another BBQ to attend. I went over to Heidi and Sarah's home to partake in food, drinks and fun. Yes, I had a couple more margaritas and decided to sober up (this was about 8pm). After a long time I headed home.

Amazingly, I got up at 5am, hangover free, and surfed a good session. That swell hung on, providing some juicy waves. A great weekend was had, no doubt!

Friday, May 18, 2007

Spring Memories

Miz B requested an update and I have one. I just got home from Saratoga. Darlene's memorial service was today. I went with my friend Kelly, whom I've know for almost 12 years and she too went on the Study Abroad Paris trip back in 1996. Kel and I have kept in touch over the years... I, in fact, taught her to surf a couple years ago. Anyway, this has been the one of my toughest losses. I'm sure aside from immediate family, its just as hard, if not harder to lose a really close friend. I wonder if it's because you chose for this person to be in your life. Cousins, uncles, aunts, you are bound by blood. Real, true friendship is bound by love.

Kelly and I were walking towards the congregation of people at the service and she asked if I believed in heaven, at least not in a biblical sense. Looking back at the moment, I might have answered her too quickly. I told her I didn't, but didn't have time to really explain. I told her I believed that we either returned to live another life, or that we recycled back into energy... that I found comfort in being a part of everything and never really dying. If there is a heaven... to me, it would be a beautiful point break, warm, glassy, waist high... my friends and I surfing it. My other friends and family on the beach having a great time. Or would it be me, forever 21 in Paris with my friends? See... too many scenarios that would be ideal.

When I got home, the Princess Cruiser fell from her sitting place. She happened to land on a metal stake and was stuck to it. I had to yank her out and felt like I was pulling a stake out of a heart. I'm so bummed that she is injured... I'm going to have to take her in to get repaired...so bummed.

The surf has been flat these last couple weeks and we are all getting stir crazy. Ankle Slappers galore! Hopefully when I write again, I won't be in such a somber mood.

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

May Surf

These past weeks have indeed been interesting and eye opening. All the while I have been getting to surf and spend loads of time with my friends. The surf has been fun, but it is evident that spring and summer are here with the masses of people in the water:


Jessie and I came up with the name "Crayolas" for all the people on those colorful foam boards. I told her that it looked like some spilled a big box of crayons in the water, thus the nickname for the beginers was conceived. The above pic was taken on Saturday afternoon... long after I went surfing. The tide has been working in the morning , way before any nonlocal or Crayola would be out.

The LogJam was happenin' this past weekend! It's a contest full of vintage longboards and no leashes... my kind of contest! On Saturday it was held at 38th (Pleasure Point) below the house of Jack Oneill, yes the inventor of the wetsuit:





The waves were small and there was very little swell. On Sunday the contest was held at 2nd Peak and the conditions were way better.





And remember, just because you are a pro-longboarder does not mean you are immune to making bad wetsuit decisions:


It was a good weekend overall and I went to 2 BBQ's. On Monday, Jessie and I headed over to 2nd Peak and got some really good rides. It was flat every where, but some decent sets rolled through and we managed in spite of the kelp. It's raining at the moment and super flat still, so perhaps the weekend will hold better prospects for more sessions!