Saturday, December 29, 2007

My Return

I just got back from my Florida vacation. It was wonderful being in warm weather!! I left just in time, as the temp dropped into the 40's. While I was there, I was able to do a lot of water activities with my family (there was about 14 of us total in my parent's house). We went boating, fishing, and I did manage a surf session. Here's a very short film I made of the whole experience - and yes, there's some footage of me surfing:


Now that I am back, the forecast calls for wind and rain for the whole weekend... well, at least it was dry for my return. I'll close this post here since I am so pooped! Happy New everyone!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Surfing the Bar

Finally, the sand has accumulated the along the Westside, making an awesome sandbar! This pic was taken about a week and half ago and there is much more sand than that. My friend Laura took a couple pics of my last wave in the other day without me knowing. She'll let me know next time when she's out taking pics, so I can really throw down the tricks ;) The water has been pretty cold, but I have been opt'ing out of wearing booties - I just hate them!

It is Christmas day and I am at home with my housemate. She isn't up yet, but I got a fire going in the fireplace and all the xmas lights on, so she can wake up to a festive setting. We are having a few people over today for a late lunch and cocktails (my favorite way to celebrate!). Then tomorrow night I leave for Florida to join my parents and other family members who made the trip with them. I'll be there until the 2nd and am looking forward to the vacation and just being out of this setting for a little bit. I'm a bit worn, as is most the population this time of year, and am feeling a little bit of a cold. Hopefully being in the sunshine state will help!

Happy holidays to all!!

Monday, December 10, 2007

Getting Younger

Another great birthday was had by me yesterday! My housemates took me to breakfast at Brazil's and then we went and got a Christmas tree. After we got home, I ran out to go surf. It was a bit small, and very chilly, but fun all the same. Earlier this week a large west swell came through the Cali coast.

Cowells, High Tide:

Indicators/The Lane:

Anyway, the surf calmed down. Returning to my birthday, after my surf session, I went to Olitas and where my family and friends had joined me for a very nice dinner. It's been awhile since I had had so many people invited to celebrate! I came home and helped my housemate decorate our xmas tree. It was a perfect end to my day.

Monday, December 03, 2007

Psycho Cycle

It's so funny how we each individually have mini-dramas that play out every day of our lives. There are events that make up our weeks, our months, and years. And I'm sure the more shit you have going on, the faster time passes.

For those interested, as a finale to the past girl situation, she officially decided to move back in with her ex (well I guess they are gf's now). So that ends that. We are still friends and had a great week together, getting into a lot of trouble at work, but nothing more romantically.

As for some more brighter news, I got to be one of the judges in the Gathering of the Tribes contest this past Saturday. It was supposed to be held at Capitola, however it was flat. Very beautiful, but too serene for a surf contest:

So with that, the contest was moved to a more rough and tumble Manresa (amazing how just driving several miles down the coast can provide vastly different conditions) :

Originally, I was supposed to surf this contest. However, I have served my time in conditions such as this and it's just not fun. Not to mention it was about 40F out with a South wind blowing. This did provide the opportunity to learn how to judge a contest... so I took it. I learned things I need to know when I am competing in these events and it provided a priceless education in competitive longboarding. I do not regret my decision in not suiting up for this one. I had a lot of support from my friends, though I had to call them and tell them "Next time...".

End note: I cannot believe it's December already... my birthday is just a week away, and my much anticipated vacation just a few weeks away! I've been learning how to make little short films, but my video camera isn't working :( I hope to remedy that by the time I head for Florida!! I will keep you all posted!

Friday, November 09, 2007

I Asked For It

This week has been VERY eventful compared to the last time I posted. I have had a mixture of different emotions going on... let me first announce that I have been officially brought forward to the SC Longboard Union. My official induction date is in March (after I complete the requirements needed to become a member). I have been waiting a long time for this, and I am truly stoked! Also, let me add that I will be surfing a contest Dec. 1st representing the SCLU... I'll keep you all posted!

The other thing has been happening is that the chick I had been talking about for awhile has finally gone back to her ex (which made everything else make sense). Things were extremely mundane with us and I was getting so tired of wondering where I stood with her, that I just wanted something to happen. Good or bad... just so I would know. This news came to me on the day of her birthday last week. I had actually sent her flowers, and so did her girlfriend. Anyway, it was extremely hard last weekend. Thank goodness for my friends, including Miz B (with a very empowering phone conversation)... it made it a lot easier to get over the situation.

The weird part is that this week we went to lunch together and talked things out - finally! We hadn't had a conversation like that since before I went to Kauai. She finally gave me some clue as to what the hell is going on. I feel way better, I think she does too. The initial trust and friendship between us has been re-established somehow. It's so strange, the situations that bring people together.

Anyway... it's been a pretty emotionally draining week, but the surf has been awesome! But things are going good and I look forward to surfing the holiday this week!

Leigh out!

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Not Much

Not a whole of stuff happening right now. The swells have died and the tides are funky, so no surf. I can still have a go out on the standup paddle board and that'll have to do. It's Halloween and I have no real plans for tonight. Not really into Halloween this year. I was just down south for work this weekend and got back late last evening, so I am still pretty fried.

There was a moderate earthquake last night. It's been awhile since I felt one that size. It's a good reminder that I live in California. Other than that, not too much going on. I'll be sure to post when anything exciting happens.

Monday, October 15, 2007

CWC 2007

What an exciting week around here! The weather did all kinds of things... from super stormy and rain, to beautiful sunny days. I did manage to get a few pics of the Cold Water Classic. I was driving around Westcliff during Day 1 of the CWC and made a little video:


Well, it got stormy and I ended up going surfing and didn't get anymore video, but I did get some pics the last day of the contest. I got this shot of Jordy Smith, who won the event, setting up for a snap:

I don't recall who this was - maybe Josh Loya. There were still some decent sets rolling though:

No shortage of spectators for this event!

In closing, I am getting over a cold, so no surfing for a couple days. It is going off again right now!
Hopefully the new swell will last for the week or will build again for the low tides and my recovery!

Saturday, October 06, 2007

October Slumber

Wow... looks like it's been a month since my last posting! Lots of things have been going on, lots of drama. I always seem to end up with girls who don't like talk things out, or communicate. Anyway, I guess I must realize that not everyone deals with things the same. My friend Jessie wants me to find a surfer chick. I told her, " You never know what these evening low tides and a SSW swell will bring in". She laughed. Spoken like a true surfer.

We are having a cold fall this year. It's been super windy and icky out. That didn't stop me from going surfing 8 days in a row last week. Needless to say, I am worn out. It's just as well, I'd rather stay in my warm home anyway.

The Cold Water Classic is going on this coming week and I can't wait to check that out! I am dog-sitting for Meg, so I will be close to all the action. Also, we are going to have evening low tides all week, so that means another surf-a-thon.

I will have get some pics of what's going on around town... stay tuned! Oh! and amazingly, I was able to catch some dolphins at play in Cowells:


Thursday, September 06, 2007

Step Into Fall

So I got my first Standup Paddle injury... I managed to crack a couple ribs after falling onto the shaft of my paddle. It's been a week and I still can't breath deep, laugh, or cough without pain. The IBU does provide some relief, but I still can't get into the water, well at least surf or standup paddle. Roxy is putting on a huge contest later this month that I had wanted to enter. ( . I have until the 16th to decide, so we'll have see how the ribs are feeling.

I found this little gem of footage from our Kauai trip! Meg was surfing the beach break called Pine Trees, to which I opt'd out and decided to do a photo-shoot - you can hear me in the background cheering her on though:


That clip always makes me laugh!
I will let you you all know how it goes if I do enter the Roxy Jam!

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Moving Forward

Well, things have been pretty mellow since my last post. Work itself has been really insane this week with down servers and main systems! I did manage to purchase a paddle for my new activity! There has been no surf, so no traditional surfing at the moment.

I just need to trim it to the right size, epoxy the handle on, and I am good to go! I also am buying a board tomorrow. It's an 11' Mickey Munoz Ultra Glide... not something I would seek to purchase, but I am getting a good deal on it, and I can standup paddle, as well as surf it on small days! The colors are obscene, but it's functional.

The girl situation is that there really isn't one at this point in time. I've let things be and I will continue to do. Both parties need to be involved in a relationship of any kind, and until that happens, I am hands off.

I did get the pleasure of speaking to Miz B on the phone yesterday evening! I can not wait to travel up to the city and meet up with her and meet her fabulous family! Surely it will be something she will capture on video and display for all our blogging friends!

Thank you all for being so supportive during the emotional stress I've been experiencing. I was telling Miz B how fortunate I am to have wonderful friends who have absolutely been there for me!

Monday, August 06, 2007

The Situation

I've been back from my vacation now for about two weeks. It's been an extremely exhausting homecoming. The emotional roller coaster I've been on has just worn me out, but I have been able to do activities that have been making things a bit easier.

A little background on the situation: I starting seeing a girl at the end of June. She had just gotten out of a 5 year long relationship (a month previous) with a woman who had basically kicked her, and her 10 year old daughter out of their home. So they, the girl I was seeing and her daughter, moved into her sisters house, to which they were, at the time moving out of at the end of July. Basically, I started dating someone fresh out of a long, committed relationship, with a 10 year old, who has no where to live. Yes, definitely a recipe for disaster. It started off great, good communication... where we were and wanting to get to know one another... taking things slow. We'd talk on the daily basis and speak candidly, honestly, and openly about many things, especially about our relationship.

The day before the 4th of July, her ex went a little ballistic, making threats and causing a ton of drama. Right after, I get a phone call from my girl saying all we could be right now is friends and that she didn't want to get into a relationship, which was fine, although we had already started doing girlfriend type things like kissing, holding hands, and sleeping together in the same bed (no sex at this point). I understood, but she was teetering saying "Friends, hug and kiss each other on the cheek, right?" and I told her I was just going to let the relationship flow whatever direction it naturally went. Well, the 4th came and I ended up kissing her under a sky full of fireworks going off and ended up sleeping over her place. We were pretty inseparable for the next few days and finally were intimate for my weekend stay at her place. I had such a wonderful time with her in the past weeks and we were having a lot of fun together.

That Monday she ran into the ex at the coffee shop she frequents and told her that she was seeing someone (meaning me of course). Everything was fine, until a couple days later she was refusing to hug or kiss me just outside of our work place, saying that everyone was teasing her each time I called. She refuse my affections because she didn't want them to have anything to talk about. I was pretty irritated. Later that evening I got the "we can only be friends" talk again. She said she was having trouble focusing on what she had to do (spend time with her daughter, find a place to live, or find a job in Orange County, so she could move there with her aunt). So, no more kissing and no more sex, because it was all clouding her judgement. Not sure if she was feeling like she being locked into another relationship so quickly.

Well, she was running out of time, and I was going on vacation to Kauai. We were still talking daily for the most part, and she offered to take me to the airport. We ended up kissing as she was dropping me off. When I was on vacation we didn't really talk a whole lot. Some days I didn't hear from her at all, some days we'd talk for awhile. Her parents were in town and she was helping her sister move out of their house, so I figured she was just busy. She had offered to pick me up from the airport when I returned home, which she did.

Since I have been back, it's been pretty down hill. She's called me a few times, but we haven't really spoken since (I mean have a meaning conversation - just very basic stuff). We don't speak at all outside of work. I was pretty frustrated one day and cornered her. I wanted to know what was going on and she basically said she was just "busy" and that she's going through a hard time. She still needed a place and she was still moving into a friend's house temporarily. She said she needs to spend time with her kid, and doesn't really have time for herself, much less anyone else. What can I say to that? What can I do but just step out of the picture? Which is what I did.

I wrote her letter, telling her where I stand and that'll be around. I haven't called her or txt'd messaged her in about a week. She called me at work to tell me a friend of mine dropped off something for me and we talked for a little bit yesterday after she got off of work. However, I ran into her today... she was with a coworker of ours and she was short and in hurry and rushed. It's so day to day with her, and it's just been tiring emotionally.

So, that's my tale of what's been going on in my life for the last month and an a half. I have no idea what's going to happen. She still, at this point in time hasn't got a place and the possibility of her moving to Orange County is still there. I guess i have to let it be and go on with things I want to pursue.

Good thing I just discovered the fun of Standup Paddleboarding! It's been the one thing keeping my mind off my current situation with this girl. SPB is a great core workout and is just plain fun on a flat day when there is no surf! I've been obsessed with obtaining all the equipment for doing this (basically an 8' paddle and floaty board). Luckily my friends have been kind enough to share theirs!

I'm really into this and I can't wait to have my own stuff! It's so great to have something new

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Kauai 2007

My apologies for dropping off the face of the earth. From the title you can probably gather that I am finally on my vacation! I flew into Kauai Tuesday afternoon and have been enjoying the beautiful scenery since. Meg and I did find some surf and have been having a great time getting to know the Cowells-like break. It's a long paddle out to the reef break, and it's a nice slow mellow wave, just like we're used to. We were having some surf wax issues, but went down to the surf shop and I experimented with some different one... we are good now.

It's been raining off and on, but the weather is just great! We haven't really gone anywhere... we've been content hanging around the house we rented along with Meg's family, and going surfing and hanging out at the beach. The vain of our existence below: Food, beer, and surfwax.

Friday, July 06, 2007

In spite of a couple of freak-out moments this week, I'd have to say that everything is going quite well. I feel so fortunate and know that the time that I have given has been such a wonderful gift. My 4th of July was just amazing, as was most of this weekend. The girl I am seeing is just great, so much that I hardly can put into words my gratitude and happiness. Such a gift.
The surf has gone down a bit after a week of south swell. There were way too many people out this weekend, so I didn't even bother. I've been pretty darn occupied anway, though I did surf 6 days in a row last week. No complaints! Life is just sweet...

Monday, June 25, 2007

Cloud Nine

Could I be any happier? I've been spending a lot of time with a girl I am completely into, and enjoying every moment. As tempting as it is to complain how tired I am from the lack of sleep, I just can't, because that time was well spent. She's just great :)
There has been a lack of surf lately. Which is just as well... I've been going to bed around 2am, which doesn't make for a good surf session for the next day. I got the Princess Cruiser back! She looks great! I haven't had a chance to put some wax on her, but will do that as soon as i get back from Santa Maria. I've been taking a lot of walks along the beach during this flat period. I ran into a sleeping pelican, which I was about 3 feet tall! (pictured)
Hopefully there will be some surf soon, but I am enjoying my new found company :)

Friday, June 15, 2007

Feelin' It Again

As much as I'd like to complain how small the surf is, it is really hard to see the world in a negative manner when you are in the midst of falling in love. It's been a long time, but I think I have every reason to believe that everything falls in my favor. Sorry the above statements are a bit ambigous. Until I have something more solid to report, that's all the info I can give. Maybe in my next post :)

Summer is here, as we can see from the surf. It's been a small week. This weekend has been pretty crowded, but we are still having fun. Next week... more surfing and BBQ's.

Monday, June 04, 2007

Ding A Ling

What a full week of surf. My body is not happy with me right now. Since the Princess Cruiser has been out for ding repairs, Blue Beastie has been my primary board. I always fail to realize what a work out it is maneuvering that beast is! I surfed 5 days in a row and am absolutely pooped. Here's what the damage to the P.Cruiser looks like (yes, there is an icky spider in there) :

When I took Blue out to 38th on Wednesday, we found the conditions to be big and windy. I ended up having a collision with someone and Blue took an injury:

For now, I just repaired the ding until I get the P. Cruiser back. I am seriously thinking of purchasing a smaller board very soon here. Blue is just too big (at least for me) to be in bigger surf.

My surf bud and friend, Jessie, said she'll be around for another year, to which I am so selfishly happy about. She didn't make it into med school, and I am bummed for her about that. Anyway, we always have such a fun time in the surf or having a drink.

A vacation sounds so wonderful right now. I still have several weeks until my Kauai vacation...

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Done Right!

I had an absolutely beautiful weekend, in spite of the overcast weather. On Saturday, the annual Santa Cruz Longboard Union Memorial Day Invitational was underway, and I got to see some awesome longboarding! A few of my friends were in the competition and it was great to witness them compete against a few pro's. Below is the scene... gray skies, but colorful sea's:

I was supposed to go to a BBQ that night, but ended up sleeping for about 12 hours. The rest must have been badly needed. I tried to surf Sunday morning at around 5am, but ended up going back home to get yet another hour of sleep. Before I left, I was able to get a pre-dawn Capitola pier:

Later, in the afternoon, I went to a BBQ for the Longboard Union people (one day to which I hope to be a part of). The realization of my good fortune to be among really wonderful people and great surfers had hit. All my progress as a person and as a surfer has been because of my decisions to move to a surf town and immerse myself in it. I couldn't be any luckier.

Yesterday I surfed in the early morning with some of the crew and it was just wonderful. A beautiful SW swell was coming in and the waves were so fun. I went to breakfast with Drew, Todd, and Brenda and had wonderful conversation about American and Dutch culture. For lunch I met up with Alison, after a 7 month period of not seeing her. It was good to reconnect and we are going to try and get her back into the water on Wednesday. Her and I had lunch and headed to the restaurant that Ryan works at. He kept fillin' our glasses of beer (and we had a margarita before hand). I was pretty much intoxicated from that point on (I think that was around 2:30 or 3pm) and had another BBQ to attend. I went over to Heidi and Sarah's home to partake in food, drinks and fun. Yes, I had a couple more margaritas and decided to sober up (this was about 8pm). After a long time I headed home.

Amazingly, I got up at 5am, hangover free, and surfed a good session. That swell hung on, providing some juicy waves. A great weekend was had, no doubt!

Friday, May 18, 2007

Spring Memories

Miz B requested an update and I have one. I just got home from Saratoga. Darlene's memorial service was today. I went with my friend Kelly, whom I've know for almost 12 years and she too went on the Study Abroad Paris trip back in 1996. Kel and I have kept in touch over the years... I, in fact, taught her to surf a couple years ago. Anyway, this has been the one of my toughest losses. I'm sure aside from immediate family, its just as hard, if not harder to lose a really close friend. I wonder if it's because you chose for this person to be in your life. Cousins, uncles, aunts, you are bound by blood. Real, true friendship is bound by love.

Kelly and I were walking towards the congregation of people at the service and she asked if I believed in heaven, at least not in a biblical sense. Looking back at the moment, I might have answered her too quickly. I told her I didn't, but didn't have time to really explain. I told her I believed that we either returned to live another life, or that we recycled back into energy... that I found comfort in being a part of everything and never really dying. If there is a heaven... to me, it would be a beautiful point break, warm, glassy, waist high... my friends and I surfing it. My other friends and family on the beach having a great time. Or would it be me, forever 21 in Paris with my friends? See... too many scenarios that would be ideal.

When I got home, the Princess Cruiser fell from her sitting place. She happened to land on a metal stake and was stuck to it. I had to yank her out and felt like I was pulling a stake out of a heart. I'm so bummed that she is injured... I'm going to have to take her in to get bummed.

The surf has been flat these last couple weeks and we are all getting stir crazy. Ankle Slappers galore! Hopefully when I write again, I won't be in such a somber mood.

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

May Surf

These past weeks have indeed been interesting and eye opening. All the while I have been getting to surf and spend loads of time with my friends. The surf has been fun, but it is evident that spring and summer are here with the masses of people in the water:

Jessie and I came up with the name "Crayolas" for all the people on those colorful foam boards. I told her that it looked like some spilled a big box of crayons in the water, thus the nickname for the beginers was conceived. The above pic was taken on Saturday afternoon... long after I went surfing. The tide has been working in the morning , way before any nonlocal or Crayola would be out.

The LogJam was happenin' this past weekend! It's a contest full of vintage longboards and no leashes... my kind of contest! On Saturday it was held at 38th (Pleasure Point) below the house of Jack Oneill, yes the inventor of the wetsuit:

The waves were small and there was very little swell. On Sunday the contest was held at 2nd Peak and the conditions were way better.

And remember, just because you are a pro-longboarder does not mean you are immune to making bad wetsuit decisions:

It was a good weekend overall and I went to 2 BBQ's. On Monday, Jessie and I headed over to 2nd Peak and got some really good rides. It was flat every where, but some decent sets rolled through and we managed in spite of the kelp. It's raining at the moment and super flat still, so perhaps the weekend will hold better prospects for more sessions!

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Dedicated To Darlene

I've been dragging my feet on this post. One of my dearest friends, Darlene, passed away last week. She was a friend I had met on my study abroad trip to Paris back in 1996. She and her husband were in the program and I got to know them both fairly well. Upon our return to the States, we still continued our friendships. Darlene did get divorced, and I was her friend through out. We've been through one another's relationships and growths and even lived together for a short period of time. She did remarry and had a daughter. About 6 years ago, she and her family moved to Atlanta so she could start a music career. She'd come to visit and I would still see her about twice a year, and we did call one another now and then. The last time I saw her was Halloween of last year, and the last phone conversation was around November. I did try to call her about a month ago because I know she was going through some medical issues, but got no response. Her mother called me on Friday to let me know she passed away. She was only 35.

Darlene was such a presence and touched everyone who knew her. I'm so happy I got to be part of her beautiful life. I couldn't be who I am today without her influence, and I am so thankful I was blessed with her friendship.

Speaking of life, I want to congratulate Shayna and her husband on the birth of her son! Conner came into the world on Monday!

Friday, April 20, 2007

Traveling the Coast

In the last week I've been going up and down central California. On Monday and Tuesday I was down in San Louis Obispo and Santa Maria for work. It's been interesting in that I have never drove around this state. The thought of a surfing safari has entered my mind, but really has materialized. As I was driving from SLO to Santa Maria, I saw the Pismo Beach Pier from the freeway. It looked very surfable, so I vowed after work I would return to get a closer look. When I came back it was so windy and blown out!

So I decided to walk around town, and maybe gain some local knowledge of this break (there were surfers about in the water, btw). While out and about I saw this cool little surf shack:

I headed home and it was completely windy the whole way. Wednesday I was in Monterey and it was still windy, although no less beautiful. A view looking towards Cannery Row and the aquarium:

Yesterday I was back home in Santa Cruz and Capitola. I went for a lovely bike ride along the seemingly deserted Westcliff. On my way home I stopped for some food... now Santa Cruz has so many public painting all over, and I'll have go around one day and photograph them, but here is just one I thought was cute:

It's the wall of a bike shop here in town. I went home and hung out with Fos.

As far as surfing goes, it was a fun week with a lot of swell. I tried to wake up to go this morning, but it was raing and I wanted to sleep in. I'm glad I did as it was pretty darn flat. More to come!

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Work & Surf

For some reason my laptop won't bring up my blogger dashboard, so I haven't been able to post. Anyway, it's been a great April so far and I have been super busy at work. It seems since school has ended I have been getting home later and work a lot harder. Go figure.
The surf has been really good this past week with a nice south swell. There's an even bigger mixture of swells happening as I type. My friends and I have been having a blast and gettin' plenty of good rides. On Saturday I saw this cool truck parked by Cowells. What an awesome surfmobile!

On Easter Sunday I went to a couple of breakfasts and had a really nice time. After I got home, Natascha and I decided to clean up the front yard, which is now just screaming to us to have a BBQ. While sweeping and raking, Fos found this little guy slithering around in the dirt:

I named him Lyle. I really like the perspective of this picture! It reminds me of one those wide angle lens shots of those puppies. Well, that's it for now. I'll try to get some more writing in soon in between surfing and working

Thursday, March 22, 2007

March Madness

I know, I know... I haven't been on forever. A few changes in my job and amount of time I have been spending surfing has left me to abandon my blog-duties. My classes are coming to an end next week and things should be falling into a more permanent space. I don't think that I have mentioned, but I transferred my job to the coast and I am now covering places over in Monterey Bay, all the way down to San Louis Obispo and Santa Maria. I was hesitant at first, but the first day I traveled to Monterey assured me that I had made the correct decision. The Monterey center is just 3 blocks from the aquarium and Cannery Row, so I walked over there at lunch time and had nice weather and a great view:

My Santa Cruz and Capitola centers are just blocks from my usual surf spots, so I lucked out there as well! Speaking of surfing, it's been just a complete blast. I had gone 6 days last week, resting only on Thursday. Needless to say, one can get surfed-out and am not in the mood this week to get in the water. I've been skating and taking walks instead, and had found a really cool sand dollar on the beach last week:

Even though work is driving me crazy this week (it's my final days here in Silicon Valley) I know that I am starting full time over on the coast. Life is still sweet and I have been enjoying it immensely!

Thursday, March 01, 2007


Really? The girl getting out of the passager side is this young surfer woman's teenage daughter? I thought it was her partner! Any comments?

Monday, February 19, 2007

Super Sesh!

Last week was pretty fun out in the water. There were some really beautiful days and fun surf and I took full advantage! It started on Valentine's Day. I went out for for an afternoon session the Blue Beastie and found all my friends already out in the line up. It was Blue's second time at Cowells, and the waves were a perfect size. Classic evening glass off... calm, glassy, we were trading boards and just having a great time. After the session, Meg and I went for tacos and beer and searched for ice cream. The next day I had an even better session! Waves had a little more to them and I got the best ride ever! It kept going and going, turning green and breaking, and turning green again. I ended my ride with a ten, but lost balance and fell off. I had so much adrenaline pumping through my body I was out of breath as I was swimming for my board. I was paddling back was trying to talk to my friend Jessie, who was right behind the whole time, but I was laughing and trying to catch my breath. After that super sesh I went for a walk along Westcliff and had a gorgeous view:

I went out Friday too, but it wasn't as fun and the other two day, besides it was very crowded. On Saturday it was unseasonably warm with temps in the mid 70's. I had to go up to San Francisco to visit the Asian Art Museum. It was hot up there too! I was in a tee and couldn't imagine wearing a hoodie. Here's a pic of the Civic Center, note the sunny skies:

And a Korean sculpture, I had remembered from Arts of Asia class last year. Glad I got to see it! I love this goofy creature!

I helped Fos move after my jaunt to SF. It was so warm in the evening as well and I told her to kiss these kinds of evenings g'bye. Santa Cruz doesn't get evenings that warm. Fos is moved in now and we have our happy household.

Monday, February 12, 2007

It's Ok Though

My predictions on the weather were indeed correct. Usually after some great weather in February, we start to get rain. It rained all last week and it really jacked up the ocean conditions. It was extremely unorganized and choppy. The waves were mush-burgers and not very powerful... just mushy.

Oh well, it was a good thing. I took Friday off because I was originally going to go up to the mountains with Meg, Jen, and Laura, but it didn't work out. It is just as well. I needed an extra day to catch up on my school work, since I was out of commission last week from my concussion. Classes are going great and I am thoroughly enjoying the subjects. I just did a presentation last week and it went fairly well. Both my instructors are awesome and very influential. I'm very fortunate to have them.

The weather did clear up yesterday and it was absolutely beautiful out, even though the surf was still a bit disorganized and lumpy. I went to a bike ride and then for a long walk. I went up the wharf and up to Cowells and back to Meg's. The sea lions were enjoying the sun as well.

I am going to try and get into the water this afternoon, after work. Hopefully the conditions will have cleaned up and I could get in some nice rides.

Monday, February 05, 2007

Black & Blue

I finally got the Blue Beastie back on Friday. I had been out of commission all week due to some one's board hitting my face on last Monday afternoon. I been having post concussion symptoms (according to my doctor) and been pretty out of it all week. I still have a bruise on my cheek where I had been hit, but at least it's not swollen any more and I don't look like a mutant.

Friday I had picked up the fin for the Blue. It had been left behind at Paradise Surf Shop when the board had been taken for repair. I went skateboarding along Eastcliff to get an idea of the conditions for the weekend. I was finally feeling up to getting out there and trying Blue. Besides, I think the skateboard was a good test for checking my balance since the accident. I rode fine and saw Hannah coming up the stairs at 38th from a session as I was practicing my style. Haven't seem her in so long and was nice to chit-chat for minute with her. After that, I went back to the Westside to go for a walk. I ran into more friends, Laura, Kim, Cliff and my newer friend Jessi (all surfers). I ended the day with my walk to the Lane and back.

Saturday, Blue and I went to 38th to take on some waves. I must say, it was very difficult maneuvering that board. It's heavy, and is 9'10... it's a lot of board for little me. It took me awhile to catch waves, but I did. Once on the wave Blue was easy to turn and walk. I was a bit disenchanted however. When I first took the Princess Cruiser out, it was magic! I knew she was the board for me. The Blue Beastie is so much more work, and I didn't have the same feelings. Surfing is humbling at times, and it reminds you exactly where your abilities are at. I stayed in the inside at 38th and being extremely cautious because I wasn't wearing a leash. I am VERY responsible when going out leashless. I stay in the inside where there are hardly any people and I don't take anything I question. Blue is a big board that isn't meant for big surf... it's a log made for noseriding.

Anyway, it was a fine warm weekend. After my surf sesh on Sunday I went for another cruise on my skateboard on the Eastside and it was just wonderful... shirt, jeans, and 72F. It will most likely rain next week, but what a great taste of spring.

Thursday, January 18, 2007

Beautiful Calm

Everything is going great! Life is definately sweet and I have been enjoying these days with great appreciation. I did get into a minor accident on Monday, but I am fine and my bumper just fell off my car. But nothing that can't be fixed. The surf has been pretty mellow and it's been super fun! I still have yet to try the Blue Beastie, as it is in the shop for repairs. It going to cost me about $125 to fix up the delam on the deck... but it's worth it and I can't wait to get it back and surf those 2'-4' peelers. My fantasy is that I just walk right up to the nose and hang. I'll let you all know if that indeed happens.

Here's after my late afternoon sesh yesterday:

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Blue Crush

This past weekend I got a pet for the Princess Cruiser, but looks like I actually picked up a Blue Beastie!

I didn't realize how much bigger this board was until I got it home and sat it next the Princess Cruiser! The Blue Beastie measures 9'10" long x 24" wide x 3" thick.

Should have no problem catching waves and noseriding on that monster! The board has some delam, which I should get repaired before putting on wax and taking it into the water, in the mean time the Princess Cruiser is still my girl and she'll be glad to get out into the surf.

I started classes yesterday. I have a Critical Thinking course with one of my favorite professors and Eastern Thought class which focuses on beliefs in China long ago. The instructor is also another one of my favorites! I am so excited about this quarter!

Wednesday, January 03, 2007

Welcome '07!

What a busy surf weekend it was! I went out last Friday and it was almost completely flat! I needed to surf to I went to the eastside and surfed 2nd peak for a little while, but then came back to 38th to have it all to myself. The waves were very small, but once in a while (a long while) a waist high set would come in. It was micro, but it was all mine.

Thursday, Natascha (to whom I will refer to as "Fos" from this point forward) and I met up in Boulder Creek after work to look at some places for her to live. After looking at one really cute place and one really skanky place, we headed to the bar. We had a beer and later drove back into town to get some dinner. We headed for Olitas for $5 fish tacos and margaritas.

I was going to talk about Saturday, but I don't remember what happened in which order. I do know I went to Cowells to surf and it was super fun and I got a few really good lefts. Sunday sucked... it was disorganized and big. Fos and I had gone out for honky mofo breakfast before, and nearly ate ourselves into a coma. I guess I felt I needed exercise after that and paddled into the mess at Cowells. For an hour it felt like I was paddling in place! I got out, completely frustrated and Meg had gone out before me, feeling the same way after her session. She made a big honky mofo dinner (meatloaf, beans, and potato's) and we gramma'd out for the New Year.

I did get a better surf session in on New Years Day, but got completely worn out and was sick yesterday. I took a surf break and feel much better today. I start classes on Tuesday next week and I am stoked! More on that later!

Hope you all had a fun and safe New Years!