The Lab

Same As It Ever Was

2010-06-08T06:27:00.000-07:00

The contest went well. We threw an awesome party and I am proud to have been part of the leadship team who hosted the contest! So great to hear from everyone what a great time they had!

It's weird to have it over with and be at a dead stop. I am finding myself needing something to do, and am thinking of taking another job to make some travel money. Wanderlust again. I have a lot of teacher friends who are all making their travel plans, and it pains me to think I have to wait until October/November to go anywhere. Perhaps I'll win the lotto tonight... I'll keep my fingers crossed. First stop, New Orleans!! Then maybe Europe. I'm a believer in spending a couple bucks on the lotto. That $2 - $5 allows me to dream about what I would do with the money that I would not have the chance of winning, had I not played at all.

Meager surf this week. Looks like a swell will be in later this week! Hopefully I will get in some really good dawn patrols in the near future!

I had two high school friends come up this past weekend. A lot people like to bag on Facebook, but I've had a really awesome experience getting back in touch with my friends. It was fun Sunday at the beach and it's so great to see my friends and their families.

Up A Notch

2010-05-27T06:36:00.000-07:00

It's been fairly insane this month. One of my all time favorite events is this weekend. I have had the pain/pleasure of planning this event with my fellow club members. Lots to do before the weekend, but I am confident it will all come together as it always does.

Dawn Patrols have been awesome... hardly anyone out but my friends. That's all I've really been able to do, work on contest stuff, sleep, work, and surf.

Redwood Planks in Surf City

2010-04-12T07:07:00.000-07:00

On Friday there was an unveiling for the new plaque that is to be placed by the lighthouse here in Santa Cruz. It commemorates the summer 3 Hawaiian Princes surfed the Rivermouth back in 1885. This literally cements in stone that Santa Cruz is the first place on the Mainland to be surfed.

It was a beautiful day and just a memorable ceramony... very aloha in every regard. Ever since I've been surfing, the story of the princes had been sort of an old legend. To see all the paper work and research spread across in Kim Stoner's living room it was in fact, well, fact.

Here's the article and sort of an addendum to this whole deal:
http://www.goodtimessantacruz.com/santa-cruz-news/good-times-cover-stories/936-riders-of-the-sea-spray.html

Going Forward

2010-04-05T06:55:00.000-07:00

It always seems I am so busy with work. I cannot believe it is already April! This past weekend I went to see a surfing exhibit at our local museum. There where a lot of local artists and surfboards on display. It was really awesome to see some of my friends contribute to this installation and to be knee deep in such a culture that appreciates it's history.

Being in the museum was a great rainy day thing to do, as the weather had nasty for the weekend. The surf was looking good, but I really haven't been into it. My sessions have been so-so and there are days I feel I have failed myself as a surfer. I have to remind myself that it is ok not to surf. It is ok to want to stay in and read or watch a movie. The good days will return and I think I should refrain from surfing until I have the want to go.

It has been busy anyway... I've the got the Memorial Day Contest coming up and I've been learning how to update the Longboard Union's website. I'm also taking care of the program, so I have layout work to do too.

Hopefully in June I can relax and find other activities to get into. After the last post, I really want to find new people to be around. No more users or needy people in my life. I let that girl go, and I really am glad I did. The site of her irritated me and I loathe her.... not really a good thing to feel about someone, but it is what it is and I am happy not to see her or be anywhere near her.

Busy and happy days ahead!

The People Whisperer

2010-03-02T21:57:00.000-08:00

Does anyone ever master the art of dealing with people? I tried in vain this week to tell someone how I felt about them... I waited all week and did not get that chance. It wasn't something I felt that should be done over the phone, or txt, or email. I believe my feelings deserved more than that.

I guess when I mentioned to her that I wanted to talk to her she knew what I wanted to say and I have been pretty much off her radar since.Thing is, she didn't even hear me out. I really wasn't looking to get anything from her or ask her to commit in any way. I simply wanted her to know because the line between friendship and something else has become a bit fuzzy. I feel I owe that to her and the friendship we share.

It's been busy, and I seem to always choose people who have a lot going on in their lives. I give my all to people who really have nothing to give, and I'm don't blame them. It's just that they are concentrating on getting their lives back on track. My timing isn't right nd I should really find people who in a similar space, because man, I telling you... I am worn out.

Is it ever easy? Words I must remember if I truly love something and am willing to let it flourish....

"Any thing you grow or raise requires time to get the desired results. If you hurry it or force it against it's nature, you will either destroy it or live with it's retardation. Time, love & patience is what it takes."

Life Unexpected

2010-02-15T06:18:00.000-08:00

This year really started on the rough side. After my Florida vacation I came to a full schedule of personal obligations to those I love, not to mention starting as a board member for the SCLU. I almost got fired from my job and lived two weeks of hell at work, and still am very resentful. As for the mini-dramas for myself and my friends and family, those of course are ever present. Dealing with these issues has become very tiresome.

However, not everything has been a struggle. I am happy to report the Cowells sand bar has made it's come back! Had some just beautiful and dynamic storms! I have had a blast surfing on really calm days... it's going to be a great spring and summer!!

We had heard that it was going to be an El Nino year and the buzz was all about the sand. As predicted, we got exactly what we wanted. And, for the most part, things for me personally are moving in the direction I've been trying for so long to go in. Three months ago I was pretty miserable, but things are starting to pick up and go my way. Let's see how it goes!

Welcome 2010!

2010-01-03T19:35:00.000-08:00

I kicked off this New Year in Florida. It's been cold... I mean super cold. No surfing this trip, but I got a day of fishing in! At least I was off of work for a couple weeks and had a pretty relaxing time with my parents and niece. I think though, next time I'll be making my visit in the spring or fall.

Tomorrow I return to my native California, which hopefully will have a nice sand build up at Cowells! I can't wait to ride my bike over and do a surf check, even though I most likely will not be surfing this week. Other hopes and promises for the new year, besides a killer sand bar? Maybe to find some direction. To have people in my life who appreciate me in theirs and vice versa. To keep getting leaner and leaner... and be motivated to be the person I know I can be.

Where'd September Go?

2009-10-05T07:48:00.000-07:00

Well looks like I missed September altogether and that was a pretty exciting month! I actually went on vacation last month to New Orleans and Florida. My friend Jessie had moved to NoLa to attend med school at Tulane, so I had booked a flight to go see her. Also, my family lives in Pensacola and I got in a visit with them too!

St. Louis Cathedral... just after a down pour in the French Quarter:

Dessert at the Cafe du Monde - Cafe au Lait with Beignets:

Beautiful houses of First Street - this one across from the famous Anne Rice Mayfair home:

A storm brewing off of Navarre Beach in Florida:

I got back home and took another week off and then returned to work and got sick. Better now but there hasn't been a whole lot of surf to speak of. Here and there swells, but nothing significant. We went out last evening and it's already freezing! The Cold Water Classic should be happening in a couple weeks and hopefully we'll get in a good swell! It's supposed to be an El Nino year, meaning more storms and rain... hopefully!

Transitions in August

2009-08-13T07:28:00.000-07:00

I always feel that August is a difficult month for me and I don't know why. Perhaps it's a transitional month, between summer and fall. Last week my uncle passed away. He died just a week before his 75th birthday. He had a great life and was the sweetest person I have known. Needless to say I spent a lot of time with my family last week. The memorial service was beautiful, and very reminiscent of my grandfather's service. I didn't realize my uncle had served in the Korean War for a number of years (My grandfather had been a POW in WWII), thus the military presence:

A very emotional day! I had also managed to get into an argument with a friend that day too. So it's been a very trying time. I'm in Modesto now for work for the rest of the week and wish I was at home. The surf has been fairly weak, and it's least i've ever surfered.

I am hoping things will be picking up. I do have my vacation coming up in 3 weeks! I'll be visiting Jessie in New Orleans for a few days and then my aunt will come get me and take me to Pensacola, FL for a few more days. Hopefully Jess can come with me and we will try and look for surf... if not, it's one of the most beautiful places to snorkel! Can't wait!!

I will hopefully come back with a lot of great pics!

Moving Full Speed

2009-06-25T06:55:00.000-07:00

May was such a busy month, as was this one. The SCLU Memorial Day contest was a success... as a club we won overall. I didn't advance in my heat but I had a great cheering section of friends and caught a killer wave with all the fanfare in the background. Nothing like surfing home field!

I had moved at the beginning of June and am very much enjoying my new place. It is really close to the beach and I in fact rode my bike there this morning to do a surf check. I can easily walk down with my surfboard and am close to all my friends.

Life is moving forward. My friend Jessie will be moving to New Orleans in a few weeks. She'll be attending Tulane for medical school. I'll miss her, but I will be visiting her in September. I just booked tickets to New Orleans thru Labor Day and will also be spending time in Pensacola as well with my dad's family. I think it's going to be a fabulous trip!!

Gearing Up!

2009-05-20T06:14:00.000-07:00

It has been an extremely busy month... I can't even believe how much more stuff is going on within the next couple weeks as well. Let me start this post by back tracking. The last sensible weekend I can remember. The LogJam... yes, I got 6th place. It was the least I have ever done for a trophy. I was having a time catching waves for that contest. For some reason I wasn't feeling it. But, I had a great time just being there and hanging out with friends and family that were there.

Shortly after that I dog/house sat for a good friend. Well, everything went fine, except on Mother's Day, the extremely elderly dog took a turn for the worst and passed on the following day. It was not a pleasant situation, especially since my friend had not returned. Thank goodness her daughter was around and took care of the dirty work, so to speak.

Now this week, we are getting ready for the Santa Cruz Longboard Union Annual Memorial Day Weekend Invitation contest. It's our 25th Anniversary running the contest, oldest longboard contest in California. I am on the contest committee and am also surfing in it! So it's going to be a lot of work, but well worth it!!

Also, I am moving at the end of the month!! I am so excited about my new place... for one thing, it is my own! No housemates! My own place again! YAY!! It's closer to the beach, and my friends populate the neightborhood. Also, there's an outdoor shower, and hot tub, as well as a place for my surfboards and bike!! It's basically the converted attic of my friends house with a seperate entrance... it's just beautiful inside (my friend is an architech) and the space is divided into functional spaces! Pics to come!

Speaking of pics, attached is of the newest edition to my board collection:

This is a Bob Miller 6'3 Egg... bought it used and in pristine condition. I may have to just keep in the house and hang it for a month or so before I wax it up and give it a try... it's just so cute and pretty!

That's it for now... contest results and updates to come!

Hot One

2009-04-22T06:39:00.000-07:00

It was sweltering this past week. I tried to cool off as much I could in the ocean, but that provided little relief. It's actually supposed to cool off for the next few days, which should be good. The LogJam is this coming weekend... old boards, no cords! I will be representing the Santa Cruz Longboard Union, surfing for our team! I'm riding an old 1960's yellow beast that is super heavy! I was getting so tired from practicing on it, I took a break and am riding the Orange Dream Machine in this pic... switch stance bottom turn:

I'm hoping the surf will be at a managable size this weekend. I'll keep it posted!

Getting Dropped on Facebook

2009-03-24T06:56:00.000-07:00

Last night I got literally dumped by a friend on Facebook. This was a coworker of mine whom I had dated very briefly and in the last two years have become fairly close friends, and spend every morning getting coffee and having breakfast (usually breakfast burritos or sandwiches that I would bring in). That's been our time to talk and catch up on things. We even joke that we are work spouses and really fit the description*. We've had our arguments and boundaries needed to be reset... as we had had an intimate relationship before.

In these two years I have been a constant sounding board for her and her problems with her dysfunctional relationship with her very needy and high maintenance girlfriend. Their relationship is really on the rocks and she recently has been seeing a counselor about these issues and has been coming to some realizations about some things.

We were talking yesterday, as usual... everything seemed normal and she was telling me about her last session with the couples counselor (she went solo that time) and just everything that was going on, and I also shared what happened over the weekend and some stuff about moving to Florida within the next year.

All seemed good and I left for Capitola about 9am, but then when I got in from a surf session around 6pm I found this message sent to me from her on Facebook (I changed her name for obvious reasons):

"Hey, It's really hard to say this but, I have to do it this way. We can't be friends anymore on FB nor outside of work. I can't have you bring me coffee nor food every day even though I really appreciate it. It is to hard for me to say to everyone that there is nothing going on between us when I see you everyday,it seems like we are together. And in fact were not together, actions speak louder than words. We have had this conversation several times but it seems like we still go back to the same routine. So please understand were I am coming from. I need to focus on me and not create more drama for myself. So I am cutting off our friendship.

Please understand that I have to do this for myself and for no one else. Please do not talk to me about this at work what so ever. If you want to talk than we can schedule a time to talk but definitely not at work. You are a great friend but unfortunately we can no longer be friends. "
--Kristy =( sorry!!

My friends say that it sounds like therapy talk and I have to agree. She's drawing boundaries, but I think she's doing it with the wrong person. Her girlfriend would go ballistic if she ever tried this on her. Keep in mind, her and I are not just acquaintances, I'm a very trusted friend and we have a lot of inside jokes and laugh a lot. We also work together. I think her issues with her girlfriend just got projected onto me.

Why would I want to schedule a time to talk? What more can I say? She just told one of her most trusted, reliable friends that we can't be friends...."You are a great friend but unfortunately we can no longer be friends. " - I just don't understand. And to do it on Facebook and then unfriend me. That's tact for you!

*Work spouse definition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_spouse

Alternate Route

2009-03-03T07:11:00.000-08:00

I think I've come to another fork in the road of my life again. For the last 9 months I feel like I've been banging my head against a wall, and I know it just can't go on like this. In the last couple weeks I've been bouncing around the idea of possibly moving to Florida in maybe 4-6 months. My parents do have the house there and I could save a lot of money. It wouldn't be a permanent move, maybe 3 years at most. If I did make this move, it would be to recover my financial situation, and I would hope to have two jobs. When I did have time, I could surf Cocoa Beach or standup paddle around in that area.

Also, I think I've been far too involved in some of my friend's lives rather have my own. It's really time to do things for me. I know I've worked hard to establish a life here in Santa Cruz, but I feel like there are still some things missing. The right kind of energy isn't present to allow for me to move forward in this time and place. I need to step aside and gain a new perspective.

I haven't made an absolute decision yet, but I have been working on revamping my resume and looking at housing in Cocoa, and Palm Bay.

I'll keep you all posted.

Maui Wowy

2009-02-11T06:04:00.000-08:00

It's been awhile since my last post. Let me start by saying that last week I took a vacation Maui and met up with my cousins. We had a great time and luckily the weather was wonderful! I got a couple of surf sessions in. We were in Kihei and the surf is generally small on that side of the island, perfect for me :) I think I went swimming once, but mostly did things like attend a birthday party for my cousin's daughter and drove up to to Tedeschi Vineyards in Ulupalakue Ranch. I brought back some pineapple wine and a few boxes of candy, but not much else. Across the street we went and had Elk burgers and hung out for lunch. After that, we went to Paia and had the best shaved ice that I have ever had! We also had shaved iced in Lahina, but it was not the best.

Before I left, I stole my friend Crissy's antenna topper from her truck. It's a surfboard shape and I took it with me to Maui. I gave it a Hawaiian shirt and some shades and put it in some scenic back drops along the trip:

I'm back home now. It's cold and rainy and I couldn't bring myself to surf yesterday because it was so cold and windy :( The waves looked fun, but I wanted to keep my memory of surfing Maui just a little bit longer.

Old Habits, New Outlook

2009-01-13T06:33:00.000-08:00

So far, 2009 has presented a lot of different scenarios for me. I come to realize that some of the people in my life really don't belong in it. My kindness has been taken advantage of for too long, and my patience is really starting to wear thin.

"Consider how hard it is to change yourself and you'll understand what little chance you have in trying to change others"

Perhaps I am the one at fault believing that I could help someone make a positive change. But in truth, people have to want to help themselves first.

Anyway, on the more positive note, my surfing is just getting better and better! This season has been super slow, but it seems to have picked up this month. This past week alone I've been out 6 days in a row, and plan a go out today. My hang fives have been so consistent that I can no longer count how many times I can run up to the nose and plant my right foot at tip. This past week I've been planting both feet at the edge, giving me a ten! This occurred 5 different times! It's so exciting so have something new to try for during a session.

All day yesterday I felt sick and had the worst headache. I got home, ate and took and took an IBU. Felt way better and surfed until about 6pm - all my friends were out it was just a blast! The weather has been in the 70's here. It was way after dark when I paddled in which was awesome because usually as soon as the sun sets it's just too cold to stay out.

This week I will be in the Stockton/Modesto area, so no waves for a few days.

G'Bye 2008

2008-12-29T06:27:00.000-08:00

I am happy the holidays are almost over. Maybe I'm looking forward to 2009 and all it's promises. Reflecting on the past year I had a lot happen... financial hardships, moving, my aunt's passing, I had my teeth pulled, I watched my boss lose her job while mine changed. So, perhaps this coming year will bring more joyful events, like those I experienced in the last couple months. My friend Laura's son was born, as well as my cousin's daughter a couple weeks ago. Found the joys of Facebook and reconnecting with so many friends, and I got to surf Malibu and spend time with my dear friend Ami. My birthday was awesome and I was so glad to see my family on Christmas and this past weekend. So many blessings.

I say g'bye to 2008 and welcome to 2009.

Come on Holiday Week!

2008-12-18T17:33:00.000-08:00

I am so glad next week is only a 3 day week! Woo! Hopefully there will be a break in the weather and some surf to be surfed. This week I have traveled to the center of the state for work. I was given 4 more centers as part as my company's realignment project. I cover the central valley of Califonia (Modesto, Stockton, Tracy) and so far, it's been pretty cool. I am a lot closer to home, or so it seems. My family and I drive through here to go jetskiing or camping, so this area is much more familiar to me. Also, I have family that lives here, so that's kind of a safety thing too.

Needless to say, it's been cold. My truck got it's first taste of frost (that surf leash has no idea what hit it! It was frozen to my bedmat.):

Since it's been so cold, getting out to surf is an ordeal. The low tides are not until late in the day as the sun is setting, and by that time your motivation to go out doesn't exsist. Instead, going out to drink is a much better idea :) Jess and I went out to the Palomar last week and got bombarded by Santa's:

This was post-birthday outting. My birthday was on the 9th, which was a Tuesday. I had a wonderful day. My friend Crissy took me to lunch, which was very nice. Then after work Jess and I got in a super fun surf session in a very small conditions. After that, we headed over to Olitas for some $6 taco and margaritas.... very mellow, but fun evening! Fos, Laura, Alison and Ryan came too! It was as much as I wanted for a Tuesday night out. Some good birthdays these last couple of years!

Anyway, Ami is coming up for the holidays, so that should be fun! I'll be seeing my family on xmas eve... it'll nice! Some fun things to look forward too!

That Time Again?!

2008-12-05T06:08:00.000-08:00

I never realize the holidays are here until the middle of December. A bit late, wouldn't you say? Anyway, I got back from L.A. Wednesday night... it was raining the majority of the time, so when I came into town, I stopped in Jessie's coffee shop and hung out with her until she closed. She was leaving for Hawaii the next day and she still isn't back yet, so needless to say, I'm glad I got to spend some time with her.

Thanksgiving was really nice. I got a surf session in before heading to my parents house. Many of my family members were there, aunts, uncles and cousins... so great to see everyone fill my old home since my parents bought it back 3 months ago! I didn't actually eat a whole lot... at least not to the point of being overstuffed. It was definitely a conservative effort on my part.

This past weekend was absolutely crazy as far the surf goes. A big swell hit the area and it seemed like it was far busier than summer! I didn't go out most of those days just because the crowds were just ridiculous! I did manage a couple sessions during this swell and it was very chaotic, but very fun.

Right now, I'm really looking ahead to the spring... I very much want to travel to Scorpion Bay with Meg and Brian when they go again... but that's pretty far off into the future, at least that's how it seems.

Out of Towner

2008-11-25T16:26:00.000-08:00

My vacation has finally come and at this moment I am in L.A. visiting my friend Ami. I drove down on Sunday and it only took me 5 1/2 hours, so being early I drove into Malibu to check out the surf. It was incredibly small, but there were only about 10 people in the water, so suited up and paddled out. I was surprised that the cobblestone bottom, which sucked to walk on. I was glad I brought the P.Cruiser out instead of the Orange Dreamciscle, because that bottom gave my board a beating! I had a fun session, catching ankle bitters. On my last wave I got a 5 in, which was a little goal of mine, since it was so small and mushy. On my way down the PCH, I missed the Topanga Canyon turn and to flip a bitch... caught some sunshine:

I got to Ami's and we went out to dinner. The next day we had breakfast then drove down to Santa Monica and checked out the pier, then went to the Promenade to do some window shopping.

It's been fun visiting with Ami and catching up. Since my arrival, her cat Q-bert has been my little stalker... following me everywhere and waits for me when I am in the bathroom. Sometimes he just can't wait and lets me know he's still there by putting his cat arms under the door:

This is borderline horror movie. Anyway, I am so glad I got to drive down and get away from Santa Cruz and Silicon Valley for a few days. I'll be heading back home tomorrow, early enough that I can get a surf session in!

8 = Hate

2008-11-17T07:36:00.000-08:00

But what does love equal?

Love equals love... gender is irrelevant. The fight against California's Prop 8 is still going on strong. This past weekend there were rallies all over the nation, and that of course included Santa Cruz. I went down to film and support the cause. The rally started at the courthouse and they were going to march to the clock town and head back. I waited along side one of the bridges to capture the the beginning of the march. The thing that surprised me is that being an observer of such an event you have such an overall perspective of what is really happening. I think that if I had been in the march, I wouldn't have had the realization of the actual scale of this matter. As I was filming, I saw masses of people coming over with their signs and chants... it was overwhelming and I got real teary-eyed. Below is just glimpse of what this looked like. People were lining all sides of the street in mobs.

As the crowd returned to the courthouse, there only 3 people in opposition to the rally, who were in favor of 8. Sad... compared to numbers who showed up to fight for gay rights. I got a lot of video as to which I will share as soon as I can get it together.

I'm not into politics, but this is personal. I can't say that even if I were straight, that I would get married. But this isn't about marriage really, it's about equal rights. It's about letting people go about their business and letting them pursue their happiness. I can't and won't let that be taken away from myself or anyone else. This is one cause I fully support and am involved in.

Westside Story

2008-11-12T06:57:00.000-08:00

I can't believe it's the middle of November already! It's been quite an exciting week... my friend Laura had her second child. I watched her 2 year old while her and her partner Fritz were in the hospital. The next day I went to see her and her new son. He was less than 24 hours old, and I believe that is the newest baby I've ever held.

Also, this week, I am in Santa Maria and San Luis Obispo for work. I believe this is my last trip down here as I am passing off my duties to some to cover locally. It's been windy, so I haven't made it out to Pismo to see what the surf is doing. Plus with the sun setting at around 5pm, it's impossible to enjoy an afternoon, well, because there isn't one.

Before I left Santa Cruz, I was able to get in some really fun surf sessions. It was going off all weekend and when I return home tomorrow, there should be a new swell in with super low tides = tons of fun!

Below is a video of what it was like on the Westside this past weekend ... waves from left to right.

I Like Surf and I Vote

2008-11-04T06:44:00.000-08:00

It's now November and there is a ton of stuff going on. It's election day today... I already voted on Sunday, so that's taken care of. Just waiting to see the results of California's Prop 8 - I voted NO on this horrid idea to take rights away from people. From this point forward, I will no longer talk about politics, because that's all they are... politics. They really have no place in my life.

Let me now talk about the important things in my life... the people who are in it day to day. My friend Laura is scheduled tonight to be induced for labor. I am so excited! She is actually due on the 15th, but the doctors wanted the baby out earlier than later. So tomorrow night, I'm going to watch her two year old, while her and her partner, Fritz, deliver their son. It really amazes me to think in 48 hours there will be a new baby around! It really trips me out!

Meg and Brian are in Scorpion Bay again... I wish I went with them. Perhaps in April, when the funds are more available after taxes. Right now I am dog/house sitting for them, so it's been sort of a mini-vacation. The week of Thanksgiving, I will be going to down to Southern California for a visit with my friend Ami. I can't wait to just take some time off of work and get out of Santa Cruz and the Bay Area for a little bit. It's been a year since I've taken full on vacation. There's been a lot of things that have happened since (my teeth being pulled, moving, the passing of my aunt, opening up the coffee shop, and other highly emotional ordeals). I am going to enjoy this long awaited reprieve.

It's been raining here the last couple of days. I got out to surf on Sunday and had a blast. I took out the Wee 7' Board. I didn't expect much, but I think that's when you have the best time. Basically, I just went out to practice popping up on that shorter board, but ended getting in a good session! Love that!

Leigh out!

Same As It Ever Was

2008-10-22T07:49:00.000-07:00

I'll be glad when this week is over. Last night I didn't set my alarm. Usually, I don't need one and can get up on my own. Not this morning. One of those days I wish I could just crawl back into bed.

This past weekend I drove up to Pacifica to join the NorCal Women's Surf Club in a friendly scrimmage. It was freezing, but we all put on jerseys and did mock heats as if we were in a contest. It was great meeting the different women in the club and just the diversity of surfers was amazing to see. Going up to Linda Mar and surfing a beach break really makes me appreciate the wonderful point breaks we have in Santa Cruz. Spoiled!

Last night a couple friends and I went to the Pacific Rim Film Festival at the Rio. It was free yesterday and there were two features. The first was called "Dance into Bali", which was a documentary about Balinese dance. Very mesmerizing! At the end of the short film, the creator of the film did a live performance of a traditional dance. I was just in a trance watching it the whole time! It was great!

The second film was called "Out of the Blue". This was a looking into the begining of surfing in Santa Cruz, and really featured a spot dear to my heart: Cowells. Local legends were in the theater, including Harry Mayo. It was great seeing footage of surfings riding waves at Cowells in 1940's on wood paddleboard... no wetsuits! When I see historic surfing materials of Santa Cruz, it makes my experience living and surfing here so very special. I think that's why I enjoy being in the Longboard Union... it makes me feel like I am carrying on a long tradition.

You can always find this photo in any surf-themed shop in this town. Original Santa Cruz Surf Club in the 1940's, with my homebreak as the back drop, Cowells.

The Oneill Cold Water Classic is going on this week at the Lane. The scaffolding went up this past weekend, and local trials were yesterday. I managed to ride my bike over there and got some vidoe of practice sessions for the next days heats. There's a bit of swell in the water, so there were some nice rides. I haven't extracted the footage from my camera yet, but I'll post what have later this week.

Hopefully I'll be having my own sessions and nice rides later this week as the tides drop.

Less People, More Waves

2008-10-14T06:57:00.000-07:00

What a cold morning! It is definitely October. Yesterday afternoon when I went surfing, the water had a bit of a bite to it... the waves were VERY small, but I needed to get in. I had one girl run over my arm while paddling in for a wave and one guy almost nail me in the head with his board as he was goofing around. No apologies, just "Almost got ya". *sigh* Yes, it's October... evening tides and 100 people wanting your waves.

Anyway, this past weekend was my niece's birthday. My family and I went up to San Francisco to check out the newly remodeled Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park. I must say, I expected a lot more. Everything seemed to be in a bigger scale, but that's it. They took out all the space stuff and made a state of the art planetarium. The aquarium seemed less, but they put in a huge kelp forest tank and another amazon exhibit. The facility was so crowded and didn't seem adequate for such a crowd. So, I was a little disappointed.

There was a white alligator however:

It looked unreal as it sat lethargically on the rock. It had spatters of blood all over it, hopefully from a live meal. The only way you can accept it's authenticity of a living creature, is by watching its eyes... the lids would move. I always feel bad for creatures in captivity, although this one probably would not be alive in the wild, having no camo to disguise it from it's prey.

After we left Golden Gate Park, we drove towards the piers. It was fleet week and you could see the Blue Angels flying overhead. It was super crowded and we just ended up driving through. From the streets you could see the floating city of one of the cruise ships. They are just so massive!!

We got home pretty late. Sunday I decided to basically just do stuff for me, since the last couple of weeks have been in the service of others. I worked on my new laptop and was having trouble with a driver for my DVD burner. The laptop was second had and has Vista on it. So, navigating has been a bit of a bitch. I did a bit of yard work and visited my friend Meg.

Hopefully today the waves will pickup. It was pretty ugly out there with so many people and so few waves. I believe it's a full moon tonight. Perhaps a Luna Run? We'll see!

Grand Opening

2008-09-30T06:28:00.000-07:00

This past week was overwhelmingly busy. My friend/surfbuddy Jessie has been immersed in opening up a coffee shop for last few years. It finally opened yesterday. It came together amazingly fast and a couple weeks ago she asked if I could set up her network and registers. So for the last two weeks we have been working endlessly to get the shop up and running. Up until the last minute we had the registers not communicating and other technical issue. I managed to get one working register before they opened and by end of day, I had them both running. There are a more things to iron out, but we opened with success!

It was a very sweet day and they had lots of visitors and customers. Here's a few pics:

Jessie making me a latte.

This place has quite a bit of square footage!

The signs went up before opening day!

I still have to go back and finish up some details regarding firewalls and security. It's so nice, though, to see everything come together.

There wasn't a whole lot of surf while all this was going on. I actually missed out on a couple of nights, but was on it the last two. I had brought out the Princess Cruiser the last two times I surfed. Oh, how I missed her. Such a great board! Last night I took out the Orange Dreamsicle and just had a blast! Also, a great board... my time on the nose has doubled and it just gets great velocity and turns with great power.

I'll surf tonight and then tomorrow the SCLU meeting is on at 6pm. Maybe I can squeeze a go out in :) Also, next week I am supposed to join some key people in meeting with the city and surf school instructors to discuss the issues we've been encountering in the water at Cowells. The situation has been getting out of hand and there's been a lot of regulations being ignored by the schools. I'll report on how that goes.

Hopefully things will slow down a bit and I can have a little more me time.
Until the next post...

Light Show

2008-09-19T06:55:00.000-07:00

For some reason I always get sick around the end of September or October. It's always the same thing: a nasty sore throat followed by sinus pressure and pain, ending with a cough. Monday it began, I felt the sore throat coming on. I totally missed the low tides this week and don't think I am well enough to go tonight. I made it out Monday, just as I was getting sick, knowing full well that I was only going to get worse and it would be my only chance for a session. It was worth it... uncrowded and fun.

I had missed two days of work and went back yesterday. I tried to go home at 2pm, feeling a little feverish, but the universe had a different plan for me. My friend and I were out talking by my truck (as per her suggestion since she was on break and didn't want to be disturbed and it was at a better distance than hers, parked right in front of the door) and as we were closing our conversation and saying g'bye, a transmitter on a power line exploded right above us, creating a huge lighting effect. It was so loud and the flashes of light were so intense, we had no idea the hell had just happened. The snapped wire had hit a moving car and stopped it dead in the street. When we realized what had happened and my friend stopped screaming, we ran into work, knowing already that the power was out. I had to make a couple calls letting certain work groups we were down. I came back outside and the fire department had arrived clearing clueless people off the sidewalk. They wouldn't let me back near my truck because the live wire was laying right in front of it ... we were that close! My friend pointed out to me that it was a good thing we had move to my truck, because hers was right underneath the poll! Most of Pacific Avenue was out of power and created quite a traffic jam. Well, everything was restored, but the epiphany that my friend and I had come out of that uninjured was pretty amazing, considering the proximity of where we were standing and the timing of it all. We were fucking lucky.

A downed line that popped up on the 3rd Street on Beach Hill:

Anyway, after I came home, I saw that the one morning glory in my yard had closed:

My housemate had pulled all the greenery on the side of the house, and these guys just came on their own. It was so pretty opened, but I think more beautiful closed. I can't wait for more of them to come out! Love those volunteers!

Hopefully, I'll have some upcoming surf sessions to talk about. All I got to do was film some of my friends surfing... but it was cool. Until next time...

Just the Begining!

2008-09-05T15:41:00.000-07:00

Well happy September! You have no idea how happy I am that Labor Day is over... to anyone who lives in Santa Cruz, this is a joyous time. It means that all the tourists go home and the kids are back in school! It means we get our quiet streets and beaches back, and no more traffic from one end of town to another. Don't get me wrong, I'm stoked that people want to check out this town, but it really wears thin by the end of August.

Also, September starts off the fall surf season, which is my favorite! The tides are bit funky this month, but hopefully we'll get some good swells in! I did buy the Wee Board yesterday and took it out last nite. Man, what workout! I was so proud of myself that I didn't bring a backup longboard or get out and run to Fritz and Laura's for a board switch. I want to prove that I am serious about learning how ride a shorter board. It was hard, but it's worth it, and builds strength in my paddling, not to mention my mentality.

This past week two guys from my surf crew got into the Santa Cruz Longboard Union. Watching your friends get inducted is just as exciting as getting inducted yourself. The SCLU couldn't ask for better people!

Things have been pretty busy, with work and surfing in the evenings. Tomorrow is my mother's birthday, so we are heading to Monterey to eat at one of her favorite places. Then on Sunday I have to go to the catholic ritual of a "40th day after death" prayer for my late aunt. Hopefully I'll have some time to garden and drop in a couple of lavender plants I had just bought.

Until the next post...

Mini-Boards, Sand Sculptures and High Times

2008-08-18T07:44:00.000-07:00

The surf has been pretty fun the last several days. The later part of last week Bob Miller let me take out a 7' egg/fish shaped board. It's pretty wide and I had no trouble catching waves due to it's hull-like volume. I had a great time on it and can't wait to try on some bigger/steeper waves. The pic on the right shows the Wee Board next to the Princess Cruiser. (The Wee Board already has a name and it's not even mine... yet!)

Speaking of the P. Cruiser, I've been going back and forth as to whether I should sell her or not. She has some minor dings here and there and I keep having the reoccurring glassing issue with the area around the fin box. She also has a delam bubble on the deck. So, I think her life with me is over, but I do love the shape and feel of this board. The thing is, this is an "off the rack" board and I can go to the Arrow Shop and get another one just like it. Or have Bob shape me a nice custom performance board like it, and pay the same price. Maybe I'll call it the "P. Cruiser II".

I took the Orange Dream Machine out this morning, after a couple week break. The weight of that board is just perfect! I love throwing my weight around on it and the beautiful, elegant delay/glide that comes with a heavier board. The stabilty this board has when cross-stepping and noseriding is exactly why I had this board made!

Last week was very normal and back to routine and I am happy for it. It allowed me time to really settle into my new place and find a new routine. Finally, I bought lights for my bike... a must if that's going to be a primary source of transportation! I've been biking to Trader Joe's and the Farmer's Market. Yesterday evening I rode over to the beach, parked it the bike and went for a stroll. Came across a creative sand sculpture:

It's just been great cruisin' around and most of my friends have come by, since they all live within walking or biking distance. I do have a nice yard and deck and bought some roses and palm for those areas. Maybe by the spring I can get some planting boxes and get a garden going. Speaking of growing, when I was in Border's looking for surfing magazines, I saw this special issue of High Times:

The funny thing is, I ended up purchasing this issue for a friend who loves women in bikinis and ganja! I told her it was almost like buying porn, but I had to, since rarely do you find such a thing to fit someone's demographic so perfectly. I think the girl ringing the sale was the one who was embarrassed as she kept trying to cram the receipt into a page that had a naked chick with pot covering her privates. I laughed and thought it funny as she turned bright red and laughed uncomfortably.

That's how we roll here... Leigh out!

Rise of the Phoenix

2008-08-08T06:42:00.000-07:00

Last month was quite eventful. I almost feel like I've lived a life time, emotionally that is. Since I've started writing posts for this blog, I've always had been interest in the concept of how a person becomes who they are... the concept of the journey and reaction to environment.

First off, I moved. I live in town now, all of Santa Cruz at my front door. The move itself was fairly easy since I had a pretty good layover. I trickled in all my stuff and my dad came and helped me with the few bigger items I had. The neighbors are all very sweet and welcoming, so the neighborhood is great. It was the cost of moving that really did me in with this move. I was in the hole for awhile and the bank had held two of my checks, making for a very stressful situation. Fortunately, that has been resolved this week.

During those stressful several days, two things happened. First my aunt, my uncle's wife, passed away. She was 71 and had a wonderful, full life. She's the mother of 6 of my cousins and the hardest thing was watching them go through the loss of their mom. I traveled with them to the Philipinnes and met up with them in Rome, so I have very fond memories of my aunt. We just had the funeral on Tuesday, and it was just beautiful. I got to see my cousins and relatives which always makes me happy.

The other event that took place was that I had to take my housemate to the ER for a kidney infection. She had a transplant long ago, so it was pretty intense when I took her in. She was in the ICU for about a day and a half. She is home now and her mom is staying with us for the week. Everything seems to be fine so far, except her blood sugar is still high.

Now, as I write this, things are semi status quo. Oh, I think I forgot to mention I had gotten pulled aside by a couple of the managers in the centers I work in and got a talking to about spending too much time with a coworker (the one I had been involved with last year) and that I am distracting her from her work. There were no facts involved, just hearsay and info from "people" complaining. Sounds like jealous "people" to me.

Hopefully all the turmoil that has happened since June 2007 calms down and gives way to a more peaceful period in my life, filled with people who very much want to be a part of me and will contribute positive energy to my life. I'm looking forward to shedding this skin that I have outgrown and am ready for another serene and happy time to come.

Inbetween Here & There

2008-07-09T08:19:00.000-07:00

Not a whole lot going right now. In about a week and a half I'll be moving in town and closer to the beach. Instead of being a 7 minute drive to surf, I can just walk or ride my bike 4 blocks to it. I'm pretty stoked! I am moving in with one of my current housemates and her cat... our other housemate decided to reside elsewhere. We found a cute 2 bedroom house with a patio and fenced in yard. It's on the small side, but we are in town and I am a block from work. I think it'll work out great.

A couple of weekends ago I went to Woodies on the Wharf - always fun to see old cars and surfboards:

My parents bought their old house back about a month ago. They sold it right after they moved to Florida and I hadn't stepped foot in there for about 5 years. I grew up in that house, so it was weird to be back. I have to admit that I've been feeling a little lost this past year, and although I don't think I found my way, I did find where I had once been:

Jay Race

2008-06-24T06:12:00.000-07:00

This past weekend I participated in the 7th Annual Jay Moriarity Memorial Paddle Race, held at New Brighton beach here in Santa Cruz. There were two divisions, a 12 mile and a 2 mile. Being fairly new to the paddle world, I did the 2 mile course. There was a huge turn out! I don't think I've ever seen so many different paddle boards - the 2 mile sprint was open to all types of boards: paddleboards, Standup Paddle Boards, people just on their surfboards paddling.

I didn't win any trophies or anything, but I did up my waterwoman status by finishing this race (and I wasn't last). For some reason my time was the only one that didn't get recorded when I went to look at the results! I was #46 and I finished in about 34 - 36 minutes. I finished with about 4-5 other people at the same time, perhaps thats where the confusion lay. Anyway, it was a good time and a good workout.

Correction: They found that they had recorded my time under a different number. My time was found and I finished the race at 0:32:04 - that puts me in 3rd place for the women's standup paddle division.

The Dream Machine

2008-06-07T16:56:00.000-07:00

Lots going on, which I will recount later. Right now, please welcome the Orange Dream Machine!!

Specs: 9'6" x 22" x 3" , Rambler Model Shaped by Bob Miller, Custom Color: Jack O' Lantern with a deck patch and fin box reinforcement

Some Details:

With the Princess Cruiser:

Another One

2008-05-26T09:24:00.000-07:00

As much work as it was, being involved with putting together the SCLU Memorial Day Invitational was a pretty awesome experience. The conditions were working against us the whole time, not to mention gas prices, but the surfing went on. The Santa Cruz Longboard Union took first place in the team standings and my friends and club members placed well in their divisions.

The sponsers (all those banners are now in my truck taking up too much space):

A rare view from the judges stand:

Aside from the contests there were after parties and BBQ's - making for a very traditional Memorial Day. eating, drinking, and being with friends. I think I drink more on this holiday weekend than any other. Yesterday I received a bunch of leftover food and Jessie and I had our own little holiday lunch and beerfest!

Oh yeah, and I did actually get some surfing in too! The waves were meager, but again, all my friends were out and it was just fun to surf with everyone and be out in the water.

Spring Thing

2008-05-20T12:15:00.000-07:00

Where the hell did this month go?? I had my wisdom teeth pulled a few weeks earlier and lost some time thereafter. Let me just say that I am so glad that is over! A day after I had the extraction done, I felt I deserved to order myself a new custom board, to ease discomfort of having dry socket.

I went to the Blue Coil shop and spoke to Bob Miller about shaping me a custom log. I wanted a single fin noserider - a sort of burnt orange color with a deck patch. Specs: 9'6" x 22.5" x 3" - no pin lines, just an opaque orange pigment. Don't worry, there will be plenty of pics! Word is that the board has been shaped, it just needs to be glassed. I'm stoked to say the least.

When I drove home from San Luis Obispo last week I spotted some beautiful California wild flowers as I drove up Hwy 1 (pictured). It was a hot one last week, but it seems the fog has moved in and the weather has been much cooler. That hasn't stopped the surf... we had some wonderful classic sessions this past weekend: friends in the water, plenty of good waves. Doesn't get any better.

This week we have the Santa Cruz Longboard Union Memorial Day Invitational. It's going to be a VERY busy weekend! Again, I should have plenty of pics... until then, Leigh out!

Crystal Clear

2008-04-23T07:10:00.000-07:00

What happened to the warm weather? It was just beautiful a couple weeks ago - warm sunshine, light breezes, glassy clear water. I broke out the Standup Paddle board and went for a cruise. This week was windy and it sprinkled yesterday. I went surfing the other morning and it was like paddling out into ice water. I took 4 waves and came in freezing. They say April is when the waters here are at their coldest. I went all winter without booties and am just now having to put them on. I guess that is what spring is like here. Warm weather and water, come back please!

I'm house/dog sitting for my friend this week. I miss my bed though... there is no place like home. Not a whole bunch going on... I've been to the dentist a couple times this month, and on the 2nd I am having my top two wisdoms out. Honestly, I have a lot of anxiety regarding this procedure. Right before I go to bed I have a sort of panic attack. Jess suggested I request Valium to take right before I go in. I'm starting to think that's a good idea!

On a totally unrelated topic, my housemate gave me a Dino-egg as part of a beautiful Easter basket she made me. I took it to work and kind of made it a little science project for myself and my friend's 11 yr old daughter.

After 24hr's of being a cup of cold water, it started to hatch:

So cute! We were all excited! Then after about 4 days it grew even more:

I was out of town when the tail broke through, so I have no pics of that. But you will all be happy to know the dinosaur is fully hatched and living a healthy life. He may show up now and again in this blog.

That's all for now... Leigh out!

No Fool's Here

2008-04-01T06:03:00.000-07:00

Last month was actually pretty eventful! I'm not sure why I didn't post this, but I was inducted into the Santa Cruz Longboard Union on March 5th! We are gearing up the for the annual Memorial Day Invitational for next month - lots of exciting things going on right now!

Last week I acquired a longboard from a gentlemen who didn't have the room for it. It's a heavy monster single fin - here it is pictured next to the Princess Cruiser:

Very old school! The specs are approx: 9'7" x 22" x 2.5" x 17.5" x 16" - I think the fin is pretty awesome too:

I'm not sure when I will take it out, perhaps this week. The structural integrity of this board is sound, according to my trusted friends, one of which helps out in a shape shop. I just need to wax it up. Sometime in the future I plan to give it a paint job that isn't so obnoxious.

Next week I am taking a Philosophy class and lap swimming to be rid of this winter chub I have been packin'. Better get in all the surfing in I can, as usual.

This past weekend I got the wave of the day - a nice shoulder high wave, perfectly in the slot, passing all my friends, who are all hootin' and cheering. Just classic!

Out for now!

Westcliff Wonderland

2008-03-13T13:01:00.000-07:00

Things have been insane at work, but some how, I managed to surf 5 days in a row with Jessie. One day we had one day of light winds and a little bump, the next beautiful and glassy... then the day after we had blown out conditions. We have had so much fun this past week! Last night we went to Seabright Brewery and had a feast... so nice sometimes to just have a nice dinner.

----------------------------------------------------------->

On one of my walks on Westcliff, I came across the evidence that someone was having a bad day.

This weekend I am going up to the mountains to get some fresh mountain air and snowboarding in. It's been a VERY long time since I've attempted anything regarding snow. We'll see how it goes! I may make another short film... we'll see!

Trucks Are For Girls

2008-02-18T19:29:00.000-08:00

After a long wait, I finally got my truck! I love this vehicle! Why didn't I get a truck before? So easy getting surfboards in and out. The above pic is the Princess Cruiser's first ride! I have a tailgate rack on order, so the towel and bungee cord are very temporary.

The surf was pretty big this weekend. I went out Sunday and had a so-so session. I can't wait for the surf to calm down and the sandbar to smooth out... all in time I guess.

I am pondering taking classes in the spring - just to get back into using my brain. And I think swimming would be great to take too.

That's all for now - just wanted to show off the new toy.

February Escape

2008-02-06T06:56:00.000-08:00

It's been a super busy time at work, and it's just going to become even more busy at the end of this month approaches. The rain has been making it difficult to surf, but we finally have had a break this week and it's been dry. I went out with Jessie yesterday and we had a great session... beautiful sunset! This was our view as we were changing out of wetsuits... Jess pulled out her camera phone, so I had to too. The Princess Cruiser posed willingly for this great shot:

We headed to Olitas for $6 tacos and margaritas to end a perfect surf sesh. Later we went back to her place to watch bad reality TV and the results of Super Tuesday. Hopefully today the surf will be kind again and I can have a repeat of yesterday.

This weekend I am supposed to get my new truck - I have been waiting FOREVER to get this vehical. Hopefully the stars will align and it will happen.

I hate Valentine's Day - this day is such a great way to make singles feel left out and reminds them that they are single. And even if I with someone, there is pressure to figure out something "special" to do. Furthermore, although I have been doing fine with my work/girl situation, this seriously doesn't help matters. I am steering clear of that place on that day.

Surfing is always a great cure for everything. Perhaps I will just surf and surf and surf.

Great 2008

2008-01-17T15:50:00.000-08:00

It's already the middle of the month and I am just now writing. So far 2008 has been pretty dynamic - the weather has been insane, huge waves rolled through this past week, Mavericks was held on Saturday,and much drama has been going on.

I'm so glad the current and swell has calmed down. When I went surfing on Friday it was huge and I caught a couple of big ones. When I went for a walk on Saturday it was still pumpin' and slammin' up against rocks and other waves, thus getting this effect:

It was perfect Standup Paddle Surfing conditions this last couple days, but there's been a nasty bitter breeze that I don't feel like dealing with. At least it's been giving me a reason to get reacquainted with my bike.

Yesterday I went to lunch with a friend, to whom I was intimate with in the past and who I still currently work with. Her girlfriend called while we were driving to get lunch and flew off the handle when she found out it was me she was with. I'm not sure how, perhaps she was looking at (we'll call her Baby C -my friend that is) Baby C's phone while she was asleep, but she got my work cell # and called me and demanded to know if I enjoyed hanging out with some one else's girlfriends. Honestly, that some one else's gf is a good friend of mine, the answer would be "yes, hands down". Anyway, I didn't feel the need to instigate the situation further by feeding her anger with smartass remarks, so I handed the phone to Baby C and told her she can take care of her psycho gf. I was irritated beyond belief. When I got home I stacked a half cord of firewood by myself in half an hour... which is pretty good for one person. I think that was the healthiest way I could take care of my frustrations. I don't like being accused of something I didn't do, nor being condemned for something that was long past. I don't ever regret being with Baby C and am absolutely thankful for the friendship we have now.

Of course this morning, Baby C reluctantly told me we have to "take a break from each other", so that she and her gf can work on their relationship. Let me add, that I am the subject of many of their arguments because Baby C and I were once intimate and we are still friends and see each other on the weekly basis, only because we work together. I never call her outside of work hours and will txt msg her once in a great while to share a funny pic or whatever... point being, we are just friends. Back to the "taking a break" subject - basically we have to stop having fun together so we can accommodate her gf's insecurities. Basically we can hangout again once they've figured things out and when her gf can get a grip on her insecurity issues - For some reason, in a lot of people's minds, they can't seem to believe that two adult who once had been intimate can have a innocent friendship or just enjoy one another's company in a platonic friendship.

Baby C didn't want to give up our time, but felt she needed to to save her relationship with this person - and i will support her all the way. If she thinks that it will work out and she'll be happy, then I am behind her 100% - she's a big girl and can make her own decisions. I'm her friend, I will listen... put in my 2 cents... she can take it or leave it.

Anyway, I am the luckiest person in the world to have the greatest friends who are there for me, and love me. I'll take my frustrated energy and put into my surfing or vigorous exercise... put it toward some greater good in my life... and there is a lot of good in my life.

Until next post...

My Return

2007-12-29T17:58:00.000-08:00

I just got back from my Florida vacation. It was wonderful being in warm weather!! I left just in time, as the temp dropped into the 40's. While I was there, I was able to do a lot of water activities with my family (there was about 14 of us total in my parent's house). We went boating, fishing, and I did manage a surf session. Here's a very short film I made of the whole experience - and yes, there's some footage of me surfing:

Now that I am back, the forecast calls for wind and rain for the whole weekend... well, at least it was dry for my return. I'll close this post here since I am so pooped! Happy New everyone!

Surfing the Bar

2007-12-23T19:56:00.000-08:00

Finally, the sand has accumulated the along the Westside, making an awesome sandbar! This pic was taken about a week and half ago and there is much more sand than that. My friend Laura took a couple pics of my last wave in the other day without me knowing. She'll let me know next time when she's out taking pics, so I can really throw down the tricks ;) The water has been pretty cold, but I have been opt'ing out of wearing booties - I just hate them!

It is Christmas day and I am at home with my housemate. She isn't up yet, but I got a fire going in the fireplace and all the xmas lights on, so she can wake up to a festive setting. We are having a few people over today for a late lunch and cocktails (my favorite way to celebrate!). Then tomorrow night I leave for Florida to join my parents and other family members who made the trip with them. I'll be there until the 2nd and am looking forward to the vacation and just being out of this setting for a little bit. I'm a bit worn, as is most the population this time of year, and am feeling a little bit of a cold. Hopefully being in the sunshine state will help!

Happy holidays to all!!

Getting Younger

2007-12-10T07:20:00.000-08:00

Another great birthday was had by me yesterday! My housemates took me to breakfast at Brazil's and then we went and got a Christmas tree. After we got home, I ran out to go surf. It was a bit small, and very chilly, but fun all the same. Earlier this week a large west swell came through the Cali coast.

Cowells, High Tide:

Indicators/The Lane:

Anyway, the surf calmed down. Returning to my birthday, after my surf session, I went to Olitas and where my family and friends had joined me for a very nice dinner. It's been awhile since I had had so many people invited to celebrate! I came home and helped my housemate decorate our xmas tree. It was a perfect end to my day.

Psycho Cycle

2007-12-03T06:13:00.000-08:00

It's so funny how we each individually have mini-dramas that play out every day of our lives. There are events that make up our weeks, our months, and years. And I'm sure the more shit you have going on, the faster time passes.

For those interested, as a finale to the past girl situation, she officially decided to move back in with her ex (well I guess they are gf's now). So that ends that. We are still friends and had a great week together, getting into a lot of trouble at work, but nothing more romantically.

As for some more brighter news, I got to be one of the judges in the Gathering of the Tribes contest this past Saturday. It was supposed to be held at Capitola, however it was flat. Very beautiful, but too serene for a surf contest:

So with that, the contest was moved to a more rough and tumble Manresa (amazing how just driving several miles down the coast can provide vastly different conditions) :

Originally, I was supposed to surf this contest. However, I have served my time in conditions such as this and it's just not fun. Not to mention it was about 40F out with a South wind blowing. This did provide the opportunity to learn how to judge a contest... so I took it. I learned things I need to know when I am competing in these events and it provided a priceless education in competitive longboarding. I do not regret my decision in not suiting up for this one. I had a lot of support from my friends, though I had to call them and tell them "Next time...".

End note: I cannot believe it's December already... my birthday is just a week away, and my much anticipated vacation just a few weeks away! I've been learning how to make little short films, but my video camera isn't working :( I hope to remedy that by the time I head for Florida!! I will keep you all posted!

I Asked For It

2007-11-09T11:50:00.000-08:00

This week has been VERY eventful compared to the last time I posted. I have had a mixture of different emotions going on... let me first announce that I have been officially brought forward to the SC Longboard Union. My official induction date is in March (after I complete the requirements needed to become a member). I have been waiting a long time for this, and I am truly stoked! Also, let me add that I will be surfing a contest Dec. 1st representing the SCLU... I'll keep you all posted!

The other thing has been happening is that the chick I had been talking about for awhile has finally gone back to her ex (which made everything else make sense). Things were extremely mundane with us and I was getting so tired of wondering where I stood with her, that I just wanted something to happen. Good or bad... just so I would know. This news came to me on the day of her birthday last week. I had actually sent her flowers, and so did her girlfriend. Anyway, it was extremely hard last weekend. Thank goodness for my friends, including Miz B (with a very empowering phone conversation)... it made it a lot easier to get over the situation.

The weird part is that this week we went to lunch together and talked things out - finally! We hadn't had a conversation like that since before I went to Kauai. She finally gave me some clue as to what the hell is going on. I feel way better, I think she does too. The initial trust and friendship between us has been re-established somehow. It's so strange, the situations that bring people together.

Anyway... it's been a pretty emotionally draining week, but the surf has been awesome! But things are going good and I look forward to surfing the holiday this week!

Leigh out!

Not Much

2007-10-31T07:47:00.000-07:00

Not a whole of stuff happening right now. The swells have died and the tides are funky, so no surf. I can still have a go out on the standup paddle board and that'll have to do. It's Halloween and I have no real plans for tonight. Not really into Halloween this year. I was just down south for work this weekend and got back late last evening, so I am still pretty fried.

There was a moderate earthquake last night. It's been awhile since I felt one that size. It's a good reminder that I live in California. Other than that, not too much going on. I'll be sure to post when anything exciting happens.

CWC 2007

2007-10-15T09:54:00.000-07:00

What an exciting week around here! The weather did all kinds of things... from super stormy and rain, to beautiful sunny days. I did manage to get a few pics of the Cold Water Classic. I was driving around Westcliff during Day 1 of the CWC and made a little video:

Well, it got stormy and I ended up going surfing and didn't get anymore video, but I did get some pics the last day of the contest. I got this shot of Jordy Smith, who won the event, setting up for a snap:

I don't recall who this was - maybe Josh Loya. There were still some decent sets rolling though:

No shortage of spectators for this event!

In closing, I am getting over a cold, so no surfing for a couple days. It is going off again right now!
Hopefully the new swell will last for the week or will build again for the low tides and my recovery!

October Slumber

2007-10-06T11:16:00.000-07:00

Wow... looks like it's been a month since my last posting! Lots of things have been going on, lots of drama. I always seem to end up with girls who don't like talk things out, or communicate. Anyway, I guess I must realize that not everyone deals with things the same. My friend Jessie wants me to find a surfer chick. I told her, " You never know what these evening low tides and a SSW swell will bring in". She laughed. Spoken like a true surfer.

We are having a cold fall this year. It's been super windy and icky out. That didn't stop me from going surfing 8 days in a row last week. Needless to say, I am worn out. It's just as well, I'd rather stay in my warm home anyway.

The Cold Water Classic is going on this coming week and I can't wait to check that out! I am dog-sitting for Meg, so I will be close to all the action. Also, we are going to have evening low tides all week, so that means another surf-a-thon.

I will have get some pics of what's going on around town... stay tuned! Oh! and amazingly, I was able to catch some dolphins at play in Cowells:

Step Into Fall

2007-09-06T06:10:00.000-07:00

So I got my first Standup Paddle injury... I managed to crack a couple ribs after falling onto the shaft of my paddle. It's been a week and I still can't breath deep, laugh, or cough without pain. The IBU does provide some relief, but I still can't get into the water, well at least surf or standup paddle. Roxy is putting on a huge contest later this month that I had wanted to enter. (http://www.lindabensonpro.com/) . I have until the 16th to decide, so we'll have see how the ribs are feeling.

I found this little gem of footage from our Kauai trip! Meg was surfing the beach break called Pine Trees, to which I opt'd out and decided to do a photo-shoot - you can hear me in the background cheering her on though:

That clip always makes me laugh!
I will let you you all know how it goes if I do enter the Roxy Jam!

Moving Forward

2007-08-16T06:44:00.000-07:00

Well, things have been pretty mellow since my last post. Work itself has been really insane this week with down servers and main systems! I did manage to purchase a paddle for my new activity! There has been no surf, so no traditional surfing at the moment.

I just need to trim it to the right size, epoxy the handle on, and I am good to go! I also am buying a board tomorrow. It's an 11' Mickey Munoz Ultra Glide... not something I would seek to purchase, but I am getting a good deal on it, and I can standup paddle, as well as surf it on small days! The colors are obscene, but it's functional.

The girl situation is that there really isn't one at this point in time. I've let things be and I will continue to do. Both parties need to be involved in a relationship of any kind, and until that happens, I am hands off.

I did get the pleasure of speaking to Miz B on the phone yesterday evening! I can not wait to travel up to the city and meet up with her and meet her fabulous family! Surely it will be something she will capture on video and display for all our blogging friends!

Thank you all for being so supportive during the emotional stress I've been experiencing. I was telling Miz B how fortunate I am to have wonderful friends who have absolutely been there for me!

The Situation

2007-08-06T21:29:00.000-07:00

I've been back from my vacation now for about two weeks. It's been an extremely exhausting homecoming. The emotional roller coaster I've been on has just worn me out, but I have been able to do activities that have been making things a bit easier.

A little background on the situation: I starting seeing a girl at the end of June. She had just gotten out of a 5 year long relationship (a month previous) with a woman who had basically kicked her, and her 10 year old daughter out of their home. So they, the girl I was seeing and her daughter, moved into her sisters house, to which they were, at the time moving out of at the end of July. Basically, I started dating someone fresh out of a long, committed relationship, with a 10 year old, who has no where to live. Yes, definitely a recipe for disaster. It started off great, good communication... where we were and wanting to get to know one another... taking things slow. We'd talk on the daily basis and speak candidly, honestly, and openly about many things, especially about our relationship.

The day before the 4th of July, her ex went a little ballistic, making threats and causing a ton of drama. Right after, I get a phone call from my girl saying all we could be right now is friends and that she didn't want to get into a relationship, which was fine, although we had already started doing girlfriend type things like kissing, holding hands, and sleeping together in the same bed (no sex at this point). I understood, but she was teetering saying "Friends, hug and kiss each other on the cheek, right?" and I told her I was just going to let the relationship flow whatever direction it naturally went. Well, the 4th came and I ended up kissing her under a sky full of fireworks going off and ended up sleeping over her place. We were pretty inseparable for the next few days and finally were intimate for my weekend stay at her place. I had such a wonderful time with her in the past weeks and we were having a lot of fun together.

That Monday she ran into the ex at the coffee shop she frequents and told her that she was seeing someone (meaning me of course). Everything was fine, until a couple days later she was refusing to hug or kiss me just outside of our work place, saying that everyone was teasing her each time I called. She refuse my affections because she didn't want them to have anything to talk about. I was pretty irritated. Later that evening I got the "we can only be friends" talk again. She said she was having trouble focusing on what she had to do (spend time with her daughter, find a place to live, or find a job in Orange County, so she could move there with her aunt). So, no more kissing and no more sex, because it was all clouding her judgement. Not sure if she was feeling like she being locked into another relationship so quickly.

Well, she was running out of time, and I was going on vacation to Kauai. We were still talking daily for the most part, and she offered to take me to the airport. We ended up kissing as she was dropping me off. When I was on vacation we didn't really talk a whole lot. Some days I didn't hear from her at all, some days we'd talk for awhile. Her parents were in town and she was helping her sister move out of their house, so I figured she was just busy. She had offered to pick me up from the airport when I returned home, which she did.

Since I have been back, it's been pretty down hill. She's called me a few times, but we haven't really spoken since (I mean have a meaning conversation - just very basic stuff). We don't speak at all outside of work. I was pretty frustrated one day and cornered her. I wanted to know what was going on and she basically said she was just "busy" and that she's going through a hard time. She still needed a place and she was still moving into a friend's house temporarily. She said she needs to spend time with her kid, and doesn't really have time for herself, much less anyone else. What can I say to that? What can I do but just step out of the picture? Which is what I did.

I wrote her letter, telling her where I stand and that'll be around. I haven't called her or txt'd messaged her in about a week. She called me at work to tell me a friend of mine dropped off something for me and we talked for a little bit yesterday after she got off of work. However, I ran into her today... she was with a coworker of ours and she was short and in hurry and rushed. It's so day to day with her, and it's just been tiring emotionally.

So, that's my tale of what's been going on in my life for the last month and an a half. I have no idea what's going to happen. She still, at this point in time hasn't got a place and the possibility of her moving to Orange County is still there. I guess i have to let it be and go on with things I want to pursue.

Good thing I just discovered the fun of Standup Paddleboarding! It's been the one thing keeping my mind off my current situation with this girl. SPB is a great core workout and is just plain fun on a flat day when there is no surf! I've been obsessed with obtaining all the equipment for doing this (basically an 8' paddle and floaty board). Luckily my friends have been kind enough to share theirs!

I'm really into this and I can't wait to have my own stuff! It's so great to have something new

Kauai 2007

2007-07-19T20:07:00.000-07:00

My apologies for dropping off the face of the earth. From the title you can probably gather that I am finally on my vacation! I flew into Kauai Tuesday afternoon and have been enjoying the beautiful scenery since. Meg and I did find some surf and have been having a great time getting to know the Cowells-like break. It's a long paddle out to the reef break, and it's a nice slow mellow wave, just like we're used to. We were having some surf wax issues, but went down to the surf shop and I experimented with some different one... we are good now.

It's been raining off and on, but the weather is just great! We haven't really gone anywhere... we've been content hanging around the house we rented along with Meg's family, and going surfing and hanging out at the beach. The vain of our existence below: Food, beer, and surfwax.

2007-07-06T09:43:00.000-07:00

In spite of a couple of freak-out moments this week, I'd have to say that everything is going quite well. I feel so fortunate and know that the time that I have given has been such a wonderful gift. My 4th of July was just amazing, as was most of this weekend. The girl I am seeing is just great, so much that I hardly can put into words my gratitude and happiness. Such a gift.

The surf has gone down a bit after a week of south swell. There were way too many people out this weekend, so I didn't even bother. I've been pretty darn occupied anway, though I did surf 6 days in a row last week. No complaints! Life is just sweet...

Cloud Nine

2007-06-25T14:09:00.000-07:00

Could I be any happier? I've been spending a lot of time with a girl I am completely into, and enjoying every moment. As tempting as it is to complain how tired I am from the lack of sleep, I just can't, because that time was well spent. She's just great :)

There has been a lack of surf lately. Which is just as well... I've been going to bed around 2am, which doesn't make for a good surf session for the next day. I got the Princess Cruiser back! She looks great! I haven't had a chance to put some wax on her, but will do that as soon as i get back from Santa Maria. I've been taking a lot of walks along the beach during this flat period. I ran into a sleeping pelican, which I was about 3 feet tall! (pictured)

Hopefully there will be some surf soon, but I am enjoying my new found company :)

Feelin' It Again

2007-06-15T11:25:00.000-07:00

As much as I'd like to complain how small the surf is, it is really hard to see the world in a negative manner when you are in the midst of falling in love. It's been a long time, but I think I have every reason to believe that everything falls in my favor. Sorry the above statements are a bit ambigous. Until I have something more solid to report, that's all the info I can give. Maybe in my next post :)

Summer is here, as we can see from the surf. It's been a small week. This weekend has been pretty crowded, but we are still having fun. Next week... more surfing and BBQ's.

Ding A Ling

2007-06-04T06:54:00.000-07:00

What a full week of surf. My body is not happy with me right now. Since the Princess Cruiser has been out for ding repairs, Blue Beastie has been my primary board. I always fail to realize what a work out it is maneuvering that beast is! I surfed 5 days in a row and am absolutely pooped. Here's what the damage to the P.Cruiser looks like (yes, there is an icky spider in there) :

When I took Blue out to 38th on Wednesday, we found the conditions to be big and windy. I ended up having a collision with someone and Blue took an injury:

For now, I just repaired the ding until I get the P. Cruiser back. I am seriously thinking of purchasing a smaller board very soon here. Blue is just too big (at least for me) to be in bigger surf.

My surf bud and friend, Jessie, said she'll be around for another year, to which I am so selfishly happy about. She didn't make it into med school, and I am bummed for her about that. Anyway, we always have such a fun time in the surf or having a drink.

A vacation sounds so wonderful right now. I still have several weeks until my Kauai vacation...

Done Right!

2007-05-29T07:18:00.000-07:00

I had an absolutely beautiful weekend, in spite of the overcast weather. On Saturday, the annual Santa Cruz Longboard Union Memorial Day Invitational was underway, and I got to see some awesome longboarding! A few of my friends were in the competition and it was great to witness them compete against a few pro's. Below is the scene... gray skies, but colorful sea's:

I was supposed to go to a BBQ that night, but ended up sleeping for about 12 hours. The rest must have been badly needed. I tried to surf Sunday morning at around 5am, but ended up going back home to get yet another hour of sleep. Before I left, I was able to get a pre-dawn Capitola pier:

Later, in the afternoon, I went to a BBQ for the Longboard Union people (one day to which I hope to be a part of). The realization of my good fortune to be among really wonderful people and great surfers had hit. All my progress as a person and as a surfer has been because of my decisions to move to a surf town and immerse myself in it. I couldn't be any luckier.

Yesterday I surfed in the early morning with some of the crew and it was just wonderful. A beautiful SW swell was coming in and the waves were so fun. I went to breakfast with Drew, Todd, and Brenda and had wonderful conversation about American and Dutch culture. For lunch I met up with Alison, after a 7 month period of not seeing her. It was good to reconnect and we are going to try and get her back into the water on Wednesday. Her and I had lunch and headed to the restaurant that Ryan works at. He kept fillin' our glasses of beer (and we had a margarita before hand). I was pretty much intoxicated from that point on (I think that was around 2:30 or 3pm) and had another BBQ to attend. I went over to Heidi and Sarah's home to partake in food, drinks and fun. Yes, I had a couple more margaritas and decided to sober up (this was about 8pm). After a long time I headed home.

Amazingly, I got up at 5am, hangover free, and surfed a good session. That swell hung on, providing some juicy waves. A great weekend was had, no doubt!

Spring Memories

2007-05-18T21:26:00.000-07:00

Miz B requested an update and I have one. I just got home from Saratoga. Darlene's memorial service was today. I went with my friend Kelly, whom I've know for almost 12 years and she too went on the Study Abroad Paris trip back in 1996. Kel and I have kept in touch over the years... I, in fact, taught her to surf a couple years ago. Anyway, this has been the one of my toughest losses. I'm sure aside from immediate family, its just as hard, if not harder to lose a really close friend. I wonder if it's because you chose for this person to be in your life. Cousins, uncles, aunts, you are bound by blood. Real, true friendship is bound by love.

Kelly and I were walking towards the congregation of people at the service and she asked if I believed in heaven, at least not in a biblical sense. Looking back at the moment, I might have answered her too quickly. I told her I didn't, but didn't have time to really explain. I told her I believed that we either returned to live another life, or that we recycled back into energy... that I found comfort in being a part of everything and never really dying. If there is a heaven... to me, it would be a beautiful point break, warm, glassy, waist high... my friends and I surfing it. My other friends and family on the beach having a great time. Or would it be me, forever 21 in Paris with my friends? See... too many scenarios that would be ideal.

When I got home, the Princess Cruiser fell from her sitting place. She happened to land on a metal stake and was stuck to it. I had to yank her out and felt like I was pulling a stake out of a heart. I'm so bummed that she is injured... I'm going to have to take her in to get repaired...so bummed.

The surf has been flat these last couple weeks and we are all getting stir crazy. Ankle Slappers galore! Hopefully when I write again, I won't be in such a somber mood.

May Surf

2007-05-02T18:39:00.000-07:00

These past weeks have indeed been interesting and eye opening. All the while I have been getting to surf and spend loads of time with my friends. The surf has been fun, but it is evident that spring and summer are here with the masses of people in the water:

Jessie and I came up with the name "Crayolas" for all the people on those colorful foam boards. I told her that it looked like some spilled a big box of crayons in the water, thus the nickname for the beginers was conceived. The above pic was taken on Saturday afternoon... long after I went surfing. The tide has been working in the morning , way before any nonlocal or Crayola would be out.

The LogJam was happenin' this past weekend! It's a contest full of vintage longboards and no leashes... my kind of contest! On Saturday it was held at 38th (Pleasure Point) below the house of Jack Oneill, yes the inventor of the wetsuit:

The waves were small and there was very little swell. On Sunday the contest was held at 2nd Peak and the conditions were way better.

And remember, just because you are a pro-longboarder does not mean you are immune to making bad wetsuit decisions:

It was a good weekend overall and I went to 2 BBQ's. On Monday, Jessie and I headed over to 2nd Peak and got some really good rides. It was flat every where, but some decent sets rolled through and we managed in spite of the kelp. It's raining at the moment and super flat still, so perhaps the weekend will hold better prospects for more sessions!

Dedicated To Darlene

2007-04-26T06:43:00.000-07:00

I've been dragging my feet on this post. One of my dearest friends, Darlene, passed away last week. She was a friend I had met on my study abroad trip to Paris back in 1996. She and her husband were in the program and I got to know them both fairly well. Upon our return to the States, we still continued our friendships. Darlene did get divorced, and I was her friend through out. We've been through one another's relationships and growths and even lived together for a short period of time. She did remarry and had a daughter. About 6 years ago, she and her family moved to Atlanta so she could start a music career. She'd come to visit and I would still see her about twice a year, and we did call one another now and then. The last time I saw her was Halloween of last year, and the last phone conversation was around November. I did try to call her about a month ago because I know she was going through some medical issues, but got no response. Her mother called me on Friday to let me know she passed away. She was only 35.

Darlene was such a presence and touched everyone who knew her. I'm so happy I got to be part of her beautiful life. I couldn't be who I am today without her influence, and I am so thankful I was blessed with her friendship.

Speaking of life, I want to congratulate Shayna and her husband on the birth of her son! Conner came into the world on Monday!

Traveling the Coast

2007-04-20T19:13:00.000-07:00

In the last week I've been going up and down central California. On Monday and Tuesday I was down in San Louis Obispo and Santa Maria for work. It's been interesting in that I have never drove around this state. The thought of a surfing safari has entered my mind, but really has materialized. As I was driving from SLO to Santa Maria, I saw the Pismo Beach Pier from the freeway. It looked very surfable, so I vowed after work I would return to get a closer look. When I came back it was so windy and blown out!

So I decided to walk around town, and maybe gain some local knowledge of this break (there were surfers about in the water, btw). While out and about I saw this cool little surf shack:

I headed home and it was completely windy the whole way. Wednesday I was in Monterey and it was still windy, although no less beautiful. A view looking towards Cannery Row and the aquarium:

Yesterday I was back home in Santa Cruz and Capitola. I went for a lovely bike ride along the seemingly deserted Westcliff. On my way home I stopped for some food... now Santa Cruz has so many public painting all over, and I'll have go around one day and photograph them, but here is just one I thought was cute:

It's the wall of a bike shop here in town. I went home and hung out with Fos.

As far as surfing goes, it was a fun week with a lot of swell. I tried to wake up to go this morning, but it was raing and I wanted to sleep in. I'm glad I did as it was pretty darn flat. More to come!

Work & Surf

2007-04-10T06:47:00.000-07:00

For some reason my laptop won't bring up my blogger dashboard, so I haven't been able to post. Anyway, it's been a great April so far and I have been super busy at work. It seems since school has ended I have been getting home later and work a lot harder. Go figure.

The surf has been really good this past week with a nice south swell. There's an even bigger mixture of swells happening as I type. My friends and I have been having a blast and gettin' plenty of good rides. On Saturday I saw this cool truck parked by Cowells. What an awesome surfmobile!

On Easter Sunday I went to a couple of breakfasts and had a really nice time. After I got home, Natascha and I decided to clean up the front yard, which is now just screaming to us to have a BBQ. While sweeping and raking, Fos found this little guy slithering around in the dirt:

I named him Lyle. I really like the perspective of this picture! It reminds me of one those wide angle lens shots of those puppies. Well, that's it for now. I'll try to get some more writing in soon in between surfing and working

March Madness

2007-03-22T06:39:00.000-07:00

I know, I know... I haven't been on forever. A few changes in my job and amount of time I have been spending surfing has left me to abandon my blog-duties. My classes are coming to an end next week and things should be falling into a more permanent space. I don't think that I have mentioned, but I transferred my job to the coast and I am now covering places over in Monterey Bay, all the way down to San Louis Obispo and Santa Maria. I was hesitant at first, but the first day I traveled to Monterey assured me that I had made the correct decision. The Monterey center is just 3 blocks from the aquarium and Cannery Row, so I walked over there at lunch time and had nice weather and a great view:

My Santa Cruz and Capitola centers are just blocks from my usual surf spots, so I lucked out there as well! Speaking of surfing, it's been just a complete blast. I had gone 6 days last week, resting only on Thursday. Needless to say, one can get surfed-out and am not in the mood this week to get in the water. I've been skating and taking walks instead, and had found a really cool sand dollar on the beach last week:

Even though work is driving me crazy this week (it's my final days here in Silicon Valley) I know that I am starting full time over on the coast. Life is still sweet and I have been enjoying it immensely!

Daughter?

2007-03-01T16:21:00.001-08:00

Really? The girl getting out of the passager side is this young surfer woman's teenage daughter? I thought it was her partner! Any comments?

Super Sesh!

2007-02-19T08:24:00.000-08:00

Last week was pretty fun out in the water. There were some really beautiful days and fun surf and I took full advantage! It started on Valentine's Day. I went out for for an afternoon session the Blue Beastie and found all my friends already out in the line up. It was Blue's second time at Cowells, and the waves were a perfect size. Classic evening glass off... calm, glassy, we were trading boards and just having a great time. After the session, Meg and I went for tacos and beer and searched for ice cream. The next day I had an even better session! Waves had a little more to them and I got the best ride ever! It kept going and going, turning green and breaking, and turning green again. I ended my ride with a ten, but lost balance and fell off. I had so much adrenaline pumping through my body I was out of breath as I was swimming for my board. I was paddling back was trying to talk to my friend Jessie, who was right behind the whole time, but I was laughing and trying to catch my breath. After that super sesh I went for a walk along Westcliff and had a gorgeous view:

I went out Friday too, but it wasn't as fun and the other two day, besides it was very crowded. On Saturday it was unseasonably warm with temps in the mid 70's. I had to go up to San Francisco to visit the Asian Art Museum. It was hot up there too! I was in a tee and couldn't imagine wearing a hoodie. Here's a pic of the Civic Center, note the sunny skies:

And a Korean sculpture, I had remembered from Arts of Asia class last year. Glad I got to see it! I love this goofy creature!

I helped Fos move after my jaunt to SF. It was so warm in the evening as well and I told her to kiss these kinds of evenings g'bye. Santa Cruz doesn't get evenings that warm. Fos is moved in now and we have our happy household.

It's Ok Though

2007-02-12T09:12:00.000-08:00

My predictions on the weather were indeed correct. Usually after some great weather in February, we start to get rain. It rained all last week and it really jacked up the ocean conditions. It was extremely unorganized and choppy. The waves were mush-burgers and not very powerful... just mushy.

Oh well, it was a good thing. I took Friday off because I was originally going to go up to the mountains with Meg, Jen, and Laura, but it didn't work out. It is just as well. I needed an extra day to catch up on my school work, since I was out of commission last week from my concussion. Classes are going great and I am thoroughly enjoying the subjects. I just did a presentation last week and it went fairly well. Both my instructors are awesome and very influential. I'm very fortunate to have them.

The weather did clear up yesterday and it was absolutely beautiful out, even though the surf was still a bit disorganized and lumpy. I went to a bike ride and then for a long walk. I went up the wharf and up to Cowells and back to Meg's. The sea lions were enjoying the sun as well.

I am going to try and get into the water this afternoon, after work. Hopefully the conditions will have cleaned up and I could get in some nice rides.

Black & Blue

2007-02-05T06:09:00.000-08:00

I finally got the Blue Beastie back on Friday. I had been out of commission all week due to some one's board hitting my face on last Monday afternoon. I been having post concussion symptoms (according to my doctor) and been pretty out of it all week. I still have a bruise on my cheek where I had been hit, but at least it's not swollen any more and I don't look like a mutant.

Friday I had picked up the fin for the Blue. It had been left behind at Paradise Surf Shop when the board had been taken for repair. I went skateboarding along Eastcliff to get an idea of the conditions for the weekend. I was finally feeling up to getting out there and trying Blue. Besides, I think the skateboard was a good test for checking my balance since the accident. I rode fine and saw Hannah coming up the stairs at 38th from a session as I was practicing my style. Haven't seem her in so long and was nice to chit-chat for minute with her. After that, I went back to the Westside to go for a walk. I ran into more friends, Laura, Kim, Cliff and my newer friend Jessi (all surfers). I ended the day with my walk to the Lane and back.

Saturday, Blue and I went to 38th to take on some waves. I must say, it was very difficult maneuvering that board. It's heavy, and is 9'10... it's a lot of board for little me. It took me awhile to catch waves, but I did. Once on the wave Blue was easy to turn and walk. I was a bit disenchanted however. When I first took the Princess Cruiser out, it was magic! I knew she was the board for me. The Blue Beastie is so much more work, and I didn't have the same feelings. Surfing is humbling at times, and it reminds you exactly where your abilities are at. I stayed in the inside at 38th and being extremely cautious because I wasn't wearing a leash. I am VERY responsible when going out leashless. I stay in the inside where there are hardly any people and I don't take anything I question. Blue is a big board that isn't meant for big surf... it's a log made for noseriding.

Anyway, it was a fine warm weekend. After my surf sesh on Sunday I went for another cruise on my skateboard on the Eastside and it was just wonderful... shirt, jeans, and 72F. It will most likely rain next week, but what a great taste of spring.

Beautiful Calm

2007-01-18T06:19:00.000-08:00

Everything is going great! Life is definately sweet and I have been enjoying these days with great appreciation. I did get into a minor accident on Monday, but I am fine and my bumper just fell off my car. But nothing that can't be fixed. The surf has been pretty mellow and it's been super fun! I still have yet to try the Blue Beastie, as it is in the shop for repairs. It going to cost me about $125 to fix up the delam on the deck... but it's worth it and I can't wait to get it back and surf those 2'-4' peelers. My fantasy is that I just walk right up to the nose and hang. I'll let you all know if that indeed happens.

Here's after my late afternoon sesh yesterday:

Blue Crush

2007-01-10T08:46:00.000-08:00

This past weekend I got a pet for the Princess Cruiser, but looks like I actually picked up a Blue Beastie!

I didn't realize how much bigger this board was until I got it home and sat it next the Princess Cruiser! The Blue Beastie measures 9'10" long x 24" wide x 3" thick.

Should have no problem catching waves and noseriding on that monster! The board has some delam, which I should get repaired before putting on wax and taking it into the water, in the mean time the Princess Cruiser is still my girl and she'll be glad to get out into the surf.

I started classes yesterday. I have a Critical Thinking course with one of my favorite professors and Eastern Thought class which focuses on beliefs in China long ago. The instructor is also another one of my favorites! I am so excited about this quarter!

Welcome '07!

2007-01-03T06:23:00.000-08:00

What a busy surf weekend it was! I went out last Friday and it was almost completely flat! I needed to surf to I went to the eastside and surfed 2nd peak for a little while, but then came back to 38th to have it all to myself. The waves were very small, but once in a while (a long while) a waist high set would come in. It was micro, but it was all mine.

Thursday, Natascha (to whom I will refer to as "Fos" from this point forward) and I met up in Boulder Creek after work to look at some places for her to live. After looking at one really cute place and one really skanky place, we headed to the bar. We had a beer and later drove back into town to get some dinner. We headed for Olitas for $5 fish tacos and margaritas.

I was going to talk about Saturday, but I don't remember what happened in which order. I do know I went to Cowells to surf and it was super fun and I got a few really good lefts. Sunday sucked... it was disorganized and big. Fos and I had gone out for honky mofo breakfast before, and nearly ate ourselves into a coma. I guess I felt I needed exercise after that and paddled into the mess at Cowells. For an hour it felt like I was paddling in place! I got out, completely frustrated and Meg had gone out before me, feeling the same way after her session. She made a big honky mofo dinner (meatloaf, beans, and potato's) and we gramma'd out for the New Year.

I did get a better surf session in on New Years Day, but got completely worn out and was sick yesterday. I took a surf break and feel much better today. I start classes on Tuesday next week and I am stoked! More on that later!

Hope you all had a fun and safe New Years!

Almost There

2006-12-27T09:01:00.001-08:00

Looks like the sand is coming back to Cowells. The surf has been inconsistent and big at times, flat others. Christmas was nice... saw my family, hung out with my friends. My housemates have been gone, so I have had the house to myself.

I start school in a couple weeks, and I am excited about that. I think I am finally adjusted to my new life in Santa Cruz and am ready to go back to a study mode. One can only hang out and surf so much, right? The winter is also a good time to have other activities, because the weather won't allow for a lot of outside events. May as well be studying. I also have this feeling 2007 is going to be great, so I anxious for this year to be done!

Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays!

A Little Organization Please

2006-12-20T05:53:00.000-08:00

The surf was definitely a bit on the crazy side these last couple weeks. Cowells is still shifting and the sand doesn't quite know where to settle. This occurrence makes it difficult to know where to be and provides a very confusing session. I surfed with Christina yesterday and we were all over the place, from late take off's, to not catching the waves at all. Anyway, hopefully it'll organize soon and give us more consistency.

It's a busy week for everyone I'm sure. Lots of get togethers! My parents are going to FL for xmas, since that was the only time they had off. I'll be going to my aunt's for xmas eve and I am probably surfing (if there's waves) on xmas day.

Hope everyone enjoys their holiday!

The pic at the top: Stormy Cowells.
The next: The other side of the Lane.

Birthday Weekend

2006-12-11T06:40:00.000-08:00

This weekend was pretty awesome! I did celebrate my birthday with my friends and family. Saturday, my housemates both gave me wonderful gifts! Journi gave me some fuzzy monkey slippers, along with matching pj's (see Olive in the green bag?):

My other housemate, Aimee, made me a very yummy chocolate cake with a surfer girl on it:

I went to Mary's in the afternoon, and she made me a sweet potato pie! YUM! And then after I spent some time with her, I headed over to Meg's where she had made dinner and margarita's for us (Jen, Maite, and myself). Meg had bought me this awesome hoodie last week and it's super cozy! Juan came by with his son and brought me a tiny glass bottle with sand and shells in it. It said "Beach front property" on it. For some reason, it may have been the margaritas, it was the funniest thing in the world. We had such a good time even though it was pretty windy and rainy out. Which brings me to the surf.

It's been pretty choppy and stormy out. It also has been pretty big. After it being just trash for most of the weekend, yesterday afternoon it started to organize a little bit and show some pretty beefy waves:

The pics were taken from the wharf, where it rarely breaks. It was such a trip to be standing over these big mounds of water pushing through! There were a bunch of shortboarders out at Cowells, which is also another rare sight.

A beautiful sunset on Cowells Beach:

Oh! And my parents came in earlier that day. We spent the afternoon having brunch and walking around downtown and looking at the coast. They bought a new sexy wetsuit (yes another one!) that I seriously needed - one just isn't enough, surfing as much as I do.

Looks a Lot Like...

2006-12-05T20:17:00.000-08:00

Yes, here were are in December. A very eventful month it is, including my birthday this coming weekend. I am thinking about having some margaritas with my friends and then roller skating after... Perhaps that would be less painful. Anyway, I got a cute new phone (a motorola pebl- in orange) and have been playing around with the camera on it. Here's my view while I was drinking coffee and eating pumpkin bread from Beckman's:

The same day, later in the evening, Meg, Mary, and I, went down to the harbor to see the Boat Light Parade that happens every year. Every year I had always passed by the sign dying to see the boats decked out in xmas lights. I made it happen this year.

Here's a pic of our sunset, looking towards Westcliff:

A boat coming into the harbor:

Preview of the lights:

The quality of the pics are not that great, but hey, at least I got to capture some lovely moments!

The surf is up for this weekend, with a macking swell coming in! It had been pretty flat these last few days. I went to the Lane one day and caught a few, then paddled over to Cowells for a bit. On Monday, it was total locals day at Cowells. Skindog was out there longboarding and just brought good energy to all the local surfers out there. It was blast, even though it was pretty small. I'll have get pics of the surf again soon.

Hope everyone is enjoying their December!

Holiday, Hooray!

2006-11-20T14:52:00.000-08:00

The holidays are approaching. It always amazes me how time flys and how much one can evolve in 12 months. My parents are staying in town for Thanksgiving, and so am I. I was thinking about going down to Irvine to visit Ami and also doing a sort of surf safari to Malibu and San Onofre, but I decided just to save that trip for New Years.

I have plans go to Big Sur with Mary, but our plans have been in flux lately, changing minute to minute, so I am not sure. It's hard sometimes, getting used to other people's way of doing things. Trying my best to be understanding and just "go with it".

The surf has been fun and I am having a great time, and enjoying seeing my skills improve session to session. I do plan on surfing this 4 day weekend! Hope everyone has a great TG!

Keeping Up, Keeping Quiet

2006-11-07T15:46:00.000-08:00

Here's to Miz B, Cooper, Shayna, and Bee... my loyal and lovely readers of this blog. I can't say honestly why I haven't written. Life isn't any busier than usual... perhaps I just needed some time to reflect and move on from some of the events that have happened. I'll try to get in more posts. I really should keep a better journal for myself.

Things are going quite well here. Surfing has been a blast. I am working with a photographer on a project that involves women surfing. She is trying to get them published in Women's Surfing Style Magazine. We haven't found a good day yet to get out and shoot. The swell just died down, but will be picking up again this week. Work has been fine. I am purchasing a new Tacoma Pickup this weekend! It's red and super cute! Perfect to throw boards in the back!

My friends are all good. Still learning to watch what I say in front of people in this small town. People seem to want to spread information, in a quick manner at that!

"Gossip needn't be false to be evil - there's a lot of truth that shouldn't be passed around. " ~Frank A. Clark

Cold Water Classic '06

2006-10-24T09:33:00.000-07:00

Thanks Cooper, Bee, and Miz B for your supportive words and luv :) Things are better today, and I am feeling optimistic again. I had a good surf session last night and found another cutie to talk to ;)

Here some photos my housemate, Journi, took from last Monday at the Cold Water Classic. The first is of Steamer Lane, the second is the massive structure they built along my bike path to house the judges and other peoples, the third is of myself and some of my crew (I'm 2nd from the left, in case you didn't know) :

A Bit of a Mess

2006-10-23T08:58:00.000-07:00

Yeah Yeah Yeah... I know, I've been gone for awhile, but a LOT has happened. I wish I had better news to update, but the cutie ran back to her ex, my car broke down, I got sick, and I was told by a friend of Hannah's that she doesn't want to talk to me. So, with that, I am actually relieved to be at work right now.

Through all this, I have been surfing quite a bit and it's been good. The day my car broke down, my housemate and I drove over to the Lane to catch The Cold Water Classic. Super awesome surfing going on....world class. I met Erica Hosseini and Karina Petroni, Vans Team riders and models and just all around cute chicks. They were going to go surfing at Ano Nuevo. I saw Peter Mel talking some guy and a handful of other famous surfers.

My housemate took a few pics that I need to download and post. Anyway... I am going to get through the day and hope to find something in it to make it good.

The Crew Unleashed!

2006-10-09T09:13:00.000-07:00

What a great weekend! God, it's been a long time since I have had one of the like. It all started Friday. Yes, the much talked about Luna Run. It started off cloudy and as the twilight crept in, the moon peaked out. The surf was very small, but the water was clear and glassy and I had Jen, Mary, Meg and Juan out with me. Later on, we all went to Meg's for some drinks, food, and good company.

The next morning, Todd, Jen, and I, headed to the eastside to catch some more waves. We paddled out to 2nd peak, but there was a chilly breeze coming through there. I was getting very cold sitting there (I had to put on a wet wetsuit, so I started off cold) so I decided to paddle over to 38th, leaving Todd and Jen to 2nd Peak. There was no wind there, as the cliff seemed to block the breeze. I had a fun time on the small scale waves. The people who were there were mostly beginners, so my wave count was high. After the session we went to Beckman's for breakfast. Our friend, and newest crew member, Mary, works there and it was her 21st birthday. We made a card for her and brought it over and she sat with us and had some coffee. Later on that night Jen and I went to her party and had a blast. My best friend Ami came into town and joined us. It was great seeing Mary with her family and friends, and was wonderful to be a part of that.

On Sunday, around 6pm, we all got in the water again. Jen, Mary, and I went without leashes, since it was so small. What a liberating feeling, not being attached to the board! Although, you have remember that, be extra carefully not to loose your stick and kill someone. It took a while, but the crowd dwindled and it was just several people and "The Crew" - Meg, Rick, Todd, Drew, Juan, Jen, Mary, and myself, left in the evening water. It's been months since we've all sat in a line up together. We just had a blast goofing off and being silly. Classic night. We all paddled in after dark, making plans to do all again later this evening.

That's what it's all about. Weekends like that make life so sweet.

Falling Back to Routine

2006-09-27T14:46:00.000-07:00

Fall is officially here. I celebrated the equinox with cocktails and something that tasted like alcoholic chai. My one housemate and I were interviewing people, well because our other housemate has moved out. It's been interesting the range of people we've been getting. Although, the one we had on Saturday took the cake. This woman, came walking up like she was queen of the land, as my housemate and I were talking to the neighbors. They were having a HUGE party that night and asked if the woman if she was one of the dancers for the evening (you can imagine how she was dressed for us to assume she was entertainment). Anyway, we soon realized she was our 1pm interview. Well...she definitely was not a match, being that she was pretty needy and demanding. She also asked if she did move in, if she could lay naked in the back. I of course said yes, and that underneath my window provided the most sunlight for proper sunbathing. We later come to find that she is a stripper/realtor. Hmmmm... it all made sense. My take on it was this: She could lay naked anywhere she wanted, but she ain't livin' with us.

Anyway... the SW swell died, but I have been surfing in the small stuff with my friends. Got to surf with a cutie the other day. We'll see how that goes! It's been a blast seeing everyone in the evening, and watching the sun set and the water glass off. No more early mornings until spring. Ah well, I have my classes to attend anyway and swimming in the evenings. It's just as well.

Paddle Out Pics

2006-09-21T14:29:00.000-07:00

Here a few pics from the Surfrider paddle out, Sept.9, 2006. It was National Paddle for Clean Water Day. There were about 40 of us out there. A totally that was!

You can see me, in the orange cap, and Alison next to me, with the purple on the wetsuit.

Again, me in the orange cap, arms folded, Ryan on the table getting his bones cracked, and Cowells in the background.

Circle Statement

Not sure who took all these, but thanks to those who did!

Morning Fun For Everyone

2006-09-19T10:42:00.000-07:00

Sorry for my absence... I didn't realize coming back from vacation was going to be so much work! Things are moving and changing right now, for the better I am sure. I am coming to terms with some relationships that are changing for better or worse, you really have no choice but to take that ride.

As far as the surf reports goes, I did get in an evening glass-off and came in with the night last week. Hope to get in more days like that. This morning was absolutely fun! A SW swell came in, providing lots of waves and opportunities for some awesome rides. I got in when it was still dark, and there was no fog. As I got out, the sun was rising and the fog started to roll in as you can see from the above pic. There were some good sets, but the tide was coming up and shutting it down fast. It made for a pretty pic though!

Monday I start classes. I've got a philosophy course and am taking swimming to keep in shape for the winter swell. I am very exciting and happy to start school again. In a few days it'll be officially Autumn... happy fall everyone!

Surfest 2006

2006-09-05T09:41:00.000-07:00

Obviously I am back in Cali, and glad to be! It's been insanely busy since I came home and for some reason I am finding comfort here at work. Perhaps because it's the rountine and the familiar.

I did participate in the 2006 NorCal Women's Surfest. Alison and I were in the same division. We both did extremely well, although there were only 3 of us in the divsion, Alison took 2nd place, and came in at 1st place! Hopefully there will be some pics from the event... especially of us surfing! The conditions were fairly small during our first heat, but were getting closed out and gnarly by the second. The sun never came out that day, and it was pretty cold. Ryan, Alison's boyfriend, and I had to seriously talk Alison into getting back into her wet wetsuit for our 2nd heat. It was that cold.

It was a extremely long, but fun, day! Now that my vacation and the contest are over, it's time for an energy shift and to welcome the fall transition. I am very much looking forward to this!

And More Pics...

2006-08-30T15:40:00.000-07:00

What a contrast from yesterday and today! It was flat with a strong beach break. Today, stormy conditions with boogie boarders and a kite surfer out! Same beach!

Yesterday:

Today:

I am headed back home tomorrow, so write you all from home :)
Signing off from Florida...

Ernesto & More Pics

2006-08-28T14:42:00.000-07:00

Tropical Storm/ Hurrincane Ernesto is heading right for us! This will be my first hurricane! I am going to get supplies with my dad tonight and help him put the storm shutters on the house. Anyway, we got a beach day in today, but no good surf. It was great to just get into the water and float around on the rental board. It was very clear out and no clouds.

Here are a few more pics of my FL experience (all pics taken today):

Today's Sucky Pseudo-Surf Sesh

Various Creautres That Are Around:

Another pic from the Kennedy Space Center from Saturday (I have more, but they are refusing to upload):

The FL Scene

2006-08-26T17:54:00.000-07:00

First, let just say that this is my 100th post! I wondered how long it was going to take me! Now, let's get on to what's going on here in the sunshine state...

It's been fun so far, but the weather is a bit funky. We've got nice sunny mornings, followed by late afternoon clouds, rain,lightening and thunder:

(This was taken was taken by my dad, who was very patient to get this shot!)

It amazes me how flat the surf has been here, in spite of the crazy weather. So, I haven't been out in any waves... yet. My family and I went to the Kennedy Space Center this afternoon as a pre-tour before the launch of space shuttle Atlantis tomorrow. Well, we have entry to view the launch, but they scrubbed it until Monday. Hopefully I'll have pics up of that, and of me rippin' by Tuesday. But here are a few pics from today's encounters:

Well, I had more pics, but they aren't loading! Anyway, I am having a great time and still have about 5 more days here in Florida. I'll keep you all posted!

Near the Beginning

2006-08-21T07:49:00.000-07:00

The crew and myself got some surfing in this weekend. It was small scale, but fun. I have a surfing competition that I am now committed to for Sept. 3! Alison and I are in the same division, and we have a good cheerleading section we have attending, so I can't wait! It'll for sure be a great beach day! Hopefully the surf will pick up. I have been so tempted to go to Eastside and surf. On Saturday, I ran into Hannah while rollerblading along the coastline, and we talked for a bit and watched waves at 2nd Peak. It looked super fun! I had already gone out earlier, and tried to get her to go surf, but it was too nippy out for her tastes, and I don't blame her. Fall is definitely in the air. She mentioned a Luna Run... you all know how I love surfing until the full moon comes out! Some else was talking about surfing a full moon... guess everyone is ready for a few evening glass off's. Getting up at 4:30am is really getting old for me, so I too am awaiting for the good tides to be awesome in the evening.

Yesterday I was pretty productive after an hour nap. Meg and I were working on some stepping stone mosaics and I finally grouted mine. They look awesome! Anyway, I will be going to FL tomorrow and will take plenty of pics and report my travels to you all! Have a great week!

BUSTED!

2006-08-17T12:45:00.000-07:00

This morning I totally caught the deer in our garden! Sorry the pics are so fuzzy but I had to keep super still and not use a flash. Plus these were taken inside from the window.

GUILTY! What shameless creatures!

Oh well, not much you can do :) Here's a view into my place:

Moving Update

2006-08-16T13:20:00.000-07:00

I am finally all moved in to my new place. It's been just great! I've been putting everything in place and yesterday I went into the backyard and picked some pear-apples, plums, pears, and a yellow squash. Love that garden! As I was driving out on to Branciforte, I saw two cottontails scurry across the street. Nice and serene, with the ocean less than ten minutes away. Meg and I have been riding bikes along Westcliff, and today I have been making a little flyer for the Surfrider Foundation. Alison has been very active with the group and I finally donated some time. Lucky for me the surf has been flat, otherwise I wouldn't be able to get anything done! The Princess Cruiser is in the shop, getting repaired. Hopefully she'll be ready for the contest on the 3rd!

I do have some pics I took, but honestly, I am not quite sure where my digicam is. Soon as I find it I will post the pics. Take care all!

Moving and Mayhem

2006-08-09T11:44:00.000-07:00

I really hate moving. The process is going slow and steady and I will have all my bigger stuff in Santa Cruz by Sunday. I painted my room yesterday. One of the walls was a deep mustardy yellow, and that is just not allowed. I painted the wall white to match the others and to go with all my stuff. I did manage a few pics yesterday, but some didn't turn out. Here's a good one of the view from the family room:

I'll take more on Friday...the creek, the garden, the kitty. After I painted yesterday, I headed into town to check out the surf. It was pulsing, but it was very high tide. Meg and I decided to paddle out anyway, since it was freakishly hot in Santa Cruz. It was fun, but VERY bumpy....we called it "The Wild Buckin' Bronco Rodeo", cuz that's what it felt like.

We went surfing again this morning and I had a few really good rides. It was small scale, but very fun. Towards the end of my session, someone collided into my board, tearing about a 3" gouge into the side:

This is not a light ding! I have to get this repaired professionally. What a bummer for the Princess Cruiser! At least it was the board and not me that took the beating. Good thing I have another board to surf on while this one is in the shop. Oh well... the liabilities of surfing.

Almost Autumn

2006-08-02T11:21:00.000-07:00

Can't believe it's August again. Guess it's all true, time flying, having fun and all that jazz. Since I've converted fully to the Santa Cruz lifestyle, life has been an absolute blast. The surf was fun on Sunday and but it was getting a little crowded. Won't have to worry about that much longer. The tourists will all go home and leave us to our waves and quiet streets. God, I don't even live in SC yet (tomorrow is my official move in) and I am tired of the all the non-locals.

Anyway, I am moving this weekend and hope to get some pics of the new place. It'll be nice only being 10 minutes from the ocean, and super peaceful being away from the suburbs. I'll keep you all posted!

Oh, and a year ago, to the day, I did a post on the upcoming Wonder Woman movie and my feelings on Eva Mendez being Diana Prince is still top choice. Anyone who begs to differ, please state your case and suggestion ;)

Too Hot 2 Handle!

2006-07-23T19:01:00.000-07:00

It was 104F today! It didn't matter that I spend the majority of the weekend at the coast...it was 94F there. I went surfing at 5am both yesterday and today, so we got out at around 7:30am. Still plenty of daylight to do whatever and sure makes for a long day. I rode my bike around the westside of Santa Cruz and as I was coming down Main St. towards the wharf, there was a horde of runners getting ready to do the Wharf to Wharf run. That race gets so packed, you can just forget about crossing the street if it's in their path.

I took the pic as I was about to ride downhill... you can see the wharf and the shores of Monterey Bay. I surf just on the other side of the wharf along westcliff.

So, my Blogavisary was a couple days ago. One full year of blogging! WOO! Interesting to look back on some of those posts and reflect on the past year. Although, it's wonderful to see that I still have the same enthusiasm and love for surfing. 3 years, and I still get excited just before paddling out.

Not a whole lot going on except the normal summer activities. I'll be going on vacation next month to FL to visit my parents. When I get back, I plan to enter the NorCal Women's Surfest Contest. School doesn't start up until late September. Sorry I haven't had any girl stories to tell, but I have some prospects out in the water...some QT Surfergirls (as they are referred too). I'll keep you all posted....

Again...beat the heat, and stay cool!

So Metropolitan

2006-07-17T13:00:00.000-07:00

Geesh, it's super hot today! I came in from lunch and felt like my shirt was drenched. I am working here in downtown San Jose this steamy afternoon. It's "Spare the Air Day" and the lightrail, and other public transit modes, are free. As I was crossing one of the city streets, I notice the city is getting ready for it's 2nd annual Grand Prix. It's a fairly new event and was extremely successful last year.

It will be weird not living in a suburban/semi-urban area, as I have been raised and lived in SJ most my life. I do love coming downtown to work. In spite of what most people think of this city, it's very quiant and has an old world feel. It reminds me of Madrid in way. It's small and easy to get around.

Anyway, I went surfing 5 of the 7 days last week and decided to give it a rest before I became "surfed out". Yes, it is possible to get tired of surfing. I am planning on paddling out tomorrow, so hopefully it won't get too crowded and there will be some waves.

Stay cool....

Making the Move

2006-07-10T10:28:00.000-07:00

I found a place in Santa Cruz! It's on a huge property with some acreage and the surroundings are just beautiful! It's 10 minutes away from downtown and from my surf spot. My housemates seem pretty awesome and have good energy... I am very excited about this move! It will be wonderful to be with my friends and all the activities I enjoy. I'll post some pics soon after I move in. The pic seen here is what the drive to my new place looks like... woodland type scenery.

So I tried taking some summer courses, but my brain has refused to think about midterms or tests. No more classes until September. That's fine, since I have a move to start preparing for, and a vacation to look forward to. I think I deserve a break. I met all the goals I setup for myself last year.

The surf has been pretty small lately, but we've managed some good sessions in. Hopefully there will be a swell in for the weekend!

Fork in the Road

2006-06-30T09:23:00.000-07:00

In an unexpected twist in my life, I find myself looking into the possibility of moving to Santa Cruz in a month or two. 24 hours ago the idea would have seemed absurd. I mean, I work and go to school here in San Jose. My family lives here. What would be the sense in moving "over the hill"? Well, I received a notice on my door when I came home from work yesterday afternoon. My rent is going up about $80 more. Not a whole lot, however, when I moved into my place last year I had no intention of staying. It was kind of a default decision at the time. I was relieved to find out this morning that I will on a month to month term on my lease, so I need no immediate action and can give this some serious thought.

I am going for drinks at Alison's tonight with some of the surf crew. I may go out for a paddle if there is any sort of waves, but the good stuff was this morning. Tomorrow morning for sure. I have a beer-bonding date with my friend Patty tomorrow night, so I can not stay in SC for the weekend. Plus I think on Sunday I am going start going through my stuff and get rid of things I am not using and start packing away items for when I do inevitably move.

Another Crazy Weekend Gone By

2006-06-26T09:32:00.000-07:00

Work had been pretty insane last week. Some idiot thought it would be a great idea to put his hot cigarette ashes out on some bone dry cardboard and pallets. The result was, of course, a fire that had severed one of my center's phones lines (including the T1 that we need so badly for interenet access and to ring sales). So i was on the phone all day coordinating the phone company and property managers and other things.

Thank goodness for the weekend! Saturday morning I got up at 4:30am to get ready to depart for Santa Cruz for the weekend. I got into the water at around 5:15ish, still dark, and my crew was already out there. It was pretty fun! I must say though, we (the crew and I), have been so spoiled by going so early on the weekdays. We have been so used to having waves to ourselves and dealing with the weekend crowds has been a challenge. Anyway, we all got out and headed to Meg's to hang out in the hot tub...which was nice since it was getting cold (it was in the 90's in San Jose, but in Santa Cruz it was in the low 60's). After that we took a bike ride to Westcliff and checked out Steamer Lane and went by Jen's house to see if she was there. She had already headed for the Wharf becuase they were displaying old Wood Cars (Woodies)and it's usually pretty freaking cool! It was cool seeing all those old cars and surfboards! (I took this pic back in 2004)

Later on that day, I took a solo bike ride up WestCliff to check out the surf again to see if we might want to go out again. It was crowded and very small so I just toured around. I had just bought my cheap awesome bike the night before so I was stoked! As I was heading back to Meg's, Hannah caught me cruisin' down the street as she got out of the surf. I hadn't seen her since Cinco de Mayo! It was nice getting caught up and she commented on how cute my bike was. Everyone was in awe of my $79 bike. It had already paid itself off for all the fun and great comments I got from it!

Anyway, I spend the night in Santa Cruz and we got up late to surf, but what a fun session we had! The waves we decent with a good chest high set coming in every so often. It was a great session!

Definitely a great weekend with great people!

Taking A Moment

2006-06-14T14:52:00.000-07:00

I'm not sure why I haven't been posting. It has been pretty busy and lots has been happening in my life... lots of people coming in and out of my life. I guess it's been a pretty transitional period for me. Still in school, my final is in a couple weeks and it's been tough seeing everyone else finish up while you still have to go to class. It really doesn't matter much anyway, I have a photography class for the summer, I am taking by suggestion from my therapist. She felt all my activities were on the physical side and I needed a more mental and creative outlet, thus the Photo Expression course.

I have been surfing quite avidly (2-4 times a week) and I think I've gone up a level. It's been great having the Cowells Crew around with all the support and fun in the water.

I am still alive, and I will make my rounds to my favorite blogs. Hopefully things will settle and I will quiet my mind to sit down and us my blog as I had first intended... my log of events going in my life at the time it's happening. Perhaps I will look back at this as a lull in life, between the beautiful sets of events that will eventually occur and give you a few bitchin' rides (yes...a surfing metaphor).

The Dawn Patrol

2006-05-28T18:52:00.000-07:00

My life has been all about surfing the last couple of weeks, as should be. I sold a few surfboards, bought a fairly new one (below).

I took her for a spin Saturday morning, only to be shoo'd out of the water after about an hour because a surf contest that was about to take place. I did manage to absolutely fall in love with my new board in that small about of time.

After changing, I went over to the cliff to catch some of the contest. The Crew was there and had coffee, kaluha, strawberries, and brownies. We sat and watched the competition (it was a kids event). Those kids were awesome noseriders! There was a tandem event where it's almost like pairs figure skating, where the guy lifts the girl over his head in different poses while riding a wave. (look in the right corner...You can sort see the tadem action)

Later, The Crew and I headed over around West Cliff to Steamer Lane for the Longboard Union Invitational, where the adults were competing. Again, some awesome surfing going on!

All of this stuff occurred before 10am (yes - the kaluha and coffee was before 9am, gotta start early).

Today was less naughty, but just as fun. I took Emily out for her first sesh and she was a complete rockstar! She caught about 3-4 waves herself, and stood up naturally. Little does she know her life has now changed :) hehehe

Hope you all are having a great weekend and enjoying friends and family!

A Quicky

2006-05-25T08:20:00.000-07:00

Sorry I've out of the blogging loop lately. Seems my time has been spent doing what I enjoy most, surfing. It seems to be all I can think about lately! I just sold 4 boards of mine to fund one nice noserider. I am going down to Pacifica to check out a 9'4" Pearson Arrow today... in great condition! I am extremely excited!

I've been surfing with the Cowells Crew lately, which is made up of about a dozen individuals who enjoy the malibu-like conditions of Cowells Cove. A great group of people who I think I can learn a lot from. Speaking of learning, I am taking my friend Emily out for her first ever surf session. We are both very excited! I will update you all on how it goes!