Saturday, July 23, 2005

Saturday's Surf Session




I didn't hit my face this time and managed to get some fun waves. The picture shown is of Cowell's Beach where I like to surf on a very low tide and a good swell - it doesn't look like that often, but I have had a lot of fun sessions there. Sometimes in the winter it can get downright scary!

When I am sitting on my board looking onshore at the landscape, I can't help but feel like I am living the California dream. The Boardwalk is to the right, dressed in palm trees and sunshine. You can hear the people shrieking with delight on the rollercoasters. If you go in the morning, you are sitting in the water with fog surrounding you like blanket, and the sound of the foghorn from the lighthouse making it be known land is near.

People complain that Cowell's is crowded and full of "kooks"and beginners. Well... it is. We all started somewhere and you cannot condemn people for wanting to learn how to surf. Let's face it, surfing is fucking fun. But back to Cowell's...every time I paddle out there I see the locals and the regulars. I have met a few new friends from that break and love the sense of community. Even for the people I don't know but see all the time, they are also part of that atmosphere. I can easily see my surf buddy Alison coming down the stairs with her big blue surfboard we lovingly call "The Tank". There are days when its such a long ride - all the way from the end of the Indicators to the beach. When I was surfing in Florida I found myself missing that environment and just those little things. I wonder if every surfer experiences the same sentiments about their home break. I am sure they do.

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