Friday, July 22, 2005
Friday Surf Session
So I got hit in the face by my 9'2" longboard. I was attempting to noseride and felt I was in the right position, but to the contrary. How humbling an experience this has been, obssessively learning to cross-step to the nose. I had negelected my learned skills in turning and dropping into steeper waves to catching smaller, more consistant and frequent waves so I can get more tip time. I have gotten as far as hanging 5, but 10 is the magic number for the magic carpet ride.
Alison and I went to 38th today to catch a few and as she paddled out to the bigger sets I stayed in the insides to re-learn my turns (I did paddle farther out, but got surprised as I took a wave that was steeper than what I had been used to in the last 3 months). The session ended pretty much after I took a hit to my brow and when Alison paddled back in after seeing a "shark-like" fish. The picture above is very flat, mellow day at 38th.
I think all the noseriding practice is worth it, especially if you can look like Alex Knost in the top picture. How bad-ass would I be if I could do that? I would be a damn rockstar!!! I swear here and now that by next summer I will hang all 10 of my toes of my surfboard!